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	<title>Ask Jackie &#187; Animals</title>
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	<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay</link>
	<description>Everything you ever wanted to know about homesteading.</description>
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		<title>Will&#8217;s fixing Old Yeller and I&#8217;m getting the orchard and garden ready for winter</title>
		<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/10/wills-fixing-old-yeller-and-im-getting-the-orchard-and-garden-ready-for-winter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/10/wills-fixing-old-yeller-and-im-getting-the-orchard-and-garden-ready-for-winter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:04:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Clay</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Preservation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Self-sufficiency]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/?p=665</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Our beloved old 1010 John Deere crawler, nicknamed &#8220;Old Yeller,&#8221; is finally getting fixed. Because Will knew it would be a rough job, he kind of put it off. Parts were very hard to find because it&#8217;s a 1962 machine. We looked and looked, all across the country, only to find them, just this week, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Our beloved old 1010 John Deere crawler, nicknamed &#8220;Old Yeller,&#8221; is finally getting fixed. Because Will knew it would be a rough job, he kind of put it off. Parts were very hard to find because it&#8217;s a 1962 machine. We looked and looked, all across the country, only to find them, just this week, less than 100 miles from home! We drove down and two days later, Will has the whole right final drive and clutch pack out of the dozer and is now cleaning everything up and re-assembling things. Wow, what a lot of parts!</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-666" title="Old-Yeller" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Old-Yeller.gif" alt="Old-Yeller" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p>Because I&#8217;m not much help (usually), I&#8217;ve been putting screen around the trunks of all our fruit trees to keep voles, mice, and rabbits from girdling them in the winter. So far I&#8217;ve done more than thirty trees. Wow, I didn&#8217;t realize we had so many. Not complaining, though.</p>
<p>I also tarped the pile of hay in our new hay loft. Just in case. We&#8217;ll be getting more square bales of hay and a few of straw too, but for now, I wanted to be extra careful of our hay; a little moisture and it begins to mold real quick.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-667" title="Hay-loft" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Hay-loft.gif" alt="Hay-loft" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p>And we finished stacking the wood shed part of the storage barn. So far, we have 11 cords of dry, split wood on pallets in there. It looks SO great. We&#8217;ve also got two cords in the unheated enclosed porch next to the greenhouse, so we can bring in wood for the stoves, even when it&#8217;s night, raining, or snowing and nasty outdoors. What a great feeling!</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-668" title="Woodpile" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Woodpile.gif" alt="Woodpile" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p>No, we aren&#8217;t ready for winter yet, but we&#8217;re getting so much closer to being ready. The big truck&#8217;s snowplow is all fixed up and next to the storage building, ready to hook up, and we&#8217;ve been moving stuff out of the way in order to plow when we need to. This time of the year you never know when a foot of that white stuff might drop on our parade.</p>
<p><strong>Readers’ Questions:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Kohlrabi</strong></p>
<p><em>I am looking for kohlrabi recipes. I never knew they would get so big!</p>
<p>Kathy Vilseck<br />
Coldwater, Mississippi</em></p>
<p>Neither did I. But then we usually eat them up when they are a lot smaller! I use them for a lot of different recipes. One of my favorites is to slice them raw into sticks and serve them with a dip. We really like them that way &#8212; nice and crispy sweet. I steam or boil them diced then serve with a cream or cheese sauce, use them in stews, casseroles, and any other mixed dishes; they fit into everything so nicely. I even grate raw ones into my salad and coleslaw. Such a versatile vegetable! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Pantry inventory</strong></p>
<p><em>I am currently wondering how to catalog all the stored goods in the pantry and root cellar. How do you do this? Do you keep a list of what you put up each year and then cross one off when you use a jar? Or just go take a look on the shelves to see what&#8217;s left? Or is there some other way to keep track? If there is a nice, simple way to do this, I&#8217;m sure you thought of it long ago. Please tell me your method.</p>
<p>Sandy Stone<br />
Central Minnesota</em></p>
<p>No, I don&#8217;t keep track of things in my pantry. I probably should, but just don&#8217;t have the time. What I do is to keep things arranged in sections: beans, carrots, fruits, ham, chicken, etc. Then when I add new stuff, I move the old jars to the side and add the new food to the rear, sliding the older jars to the front to be used first&#8230;kind of like a kid&#8217;s puzzle. I do the same when I add new dry goods, like flour and sugar to a plastic garbage can they are stored in. That takes a little more work, but I don&#8217;t add new bags too often and in that way I keep the new foods down lower, using the older up first.</p>
<p>For my canned goods, I just look on the shelves and mentally keep track of what I have there&#8230;especially when I&#8217;m planning a garden. That way I am sure to plant plenty of the food I&#8217;m running lowest in&#8230;say sweet corn, carrots, or rutabagas.</p>
<p>Eventually, I would like to keep a little notebook down there and mark down how many jars of whatever I have, but my life will have to slow down a lot to have that much extra time! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Breeding goats</strong></p>
<p><em>I read your blog about Thor, your Boer buck, and was wondering why you would breed a meat-type goat with a dairy goat? My instincts tell me that there might be a decrease in your milk yields with the offspring as they are no longer pure dairy goats. He is a magnificent looking animal and I hope you have much success. How does one go about determining how to improve a herd?</p>
<p>Deborah Motylnski<br />
Brecksville, Ohio</em></p>
<p>Although Boers are &#8220;meat&#8221; goats, I&#8217;ve seen many who came from real milkers. My old buck, Rocky, had a mother who I SAW milked and she gave two quarts at an afternoon milking. She also had a great udder&#8230;and I used to show dairy goats! The reason I am crossing my dairy goats with Boers (from good milkers) is that many dairy goats have light bone and not a whole lot of body substance. Therefore they don&#8217;t make kids with much meat and they don&#8217;t seem to have the subsistence to milk and survive for a long time.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve had great success by crossing Boer with my Nubians. I still get the flashy colors, gorgeous ears, and lots of milk. But the resultant offspring have heavy bone and a large barrel (for eating more roughage and turning it into milk), as well as heavier shoulders, neck, and rump, where the meat is if you want to eat your extra wethers.</p>
<p>Rocky is a tall, great looking buck, but a little light in the rear. We bought Thor because he is from good milking lines and has a great, very thick rear and shoulder. He IS shorter than Rocky. So we figure that between the two&#8230;breeding Rocky&#8217;s daughters with Thor and Thor&#8217;s daughter (that we also bought) with Rocky, we just might get great offspring.</p>
<p>To improve your herd, always look at them with an impartial eye. Is your doe&#8217;s udder too long and dangly? Does she have weak legs? Could she give more milk than she does or milk strongly for a longer time? Breed your does to a buck who either has the traits your doe lacks or has a mother and female siblings who do. You&#8217;ll never get the perfect goat, but the harder you try to breed in better traits, the better your overall herd will be. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Canning apple pie filling</strong></p>
<p><em>I am going to can apple pie like grandma used to do. Since she is passed on, I am not sure of the time to process in the canner. I am thinking 15 min. at 10 pounds. How does that sound?</p>
<p>Viki Mowatt<br />
Everett, Washington</em></p>
<p>Grandma probably used corn starch or flour to thicken her apple pie filling. Neither is recommended today, as both can make so dense a product that the heat can not reach the center of the jar, making safe processing unsure. Now it is recommended that you use a refined corn starch product, Clear Jel, which is safe to use in canning. To use this as a pie filling, use 1/4 cup Clear Jel to 6 quarts sliced apples, spices, 3/4 cup bottled lemon juice, 5 1/2 cups sugar, 5 cups apple juice, 2 1/2 cups cold water.</p>
<p>Peel the apples, slice them and drop in water containing ascorbic acid (powdered vitamin C) to prevent browning. Place 6 cups at a time in a gallon of boiling water in a large pot. Bring to boiling and boil 1 minute. Drain but cover in a bowl to keep warm. Repeat with other apple slices. Combine sugar, Clear Jel, apple juice, and water in large kettle. Bring to boil and boil until thickens, stirring to keep from scorching. Add lemon juice and boil 1 minute, stirring to keep from scorching. Add drained apple slices and immediately fill hot jars with mixture, leaving 1&#8243; of headspace. Process in a boiling water bath canner for 25 minutes (pints and quarts). If you live at an altitude over 1,000 feet, consult your canning book for directions on adjusting your time, if necessary.)</p>
<p>You&#8217;ll like your apple pie filling in a jar. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Canning chicken gravy</strong></p>
<p><em>I made way too much home made chicken gravy. It&#8217;s good and I will freeze it if that&#8217;s the only thing to do but, I was wondering if canning is an option. The gravy isn&#8217;t too thick, just a little flour and a lot of good broth. What do you think?</p>
<p>Liz Davey<br />
Brighton, Michigan<br />
</em><br />
The thickness of a gravy is the key to safe canning. If in doubt, add a little more broth to make it a light gravy, then thicken it upon use. &#8212; Jackie</p>
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/10/wills-fixing-old-yeller-and-im-getting-the-orchard-and-garden-ready-for-winter/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
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		<title>We&#8217;ve had snow and freezing, but harvest continues</title>
		<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/03/weve-had-snow-and-freezing-but-harvest-continues/</link>
		<comments>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/03/weve-had-snow-and-freezing-but-harvest-continues/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 19:43:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Clay</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Preservation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Self-sufficiency]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/?p=661</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Today I finished up the last minute harvest in our garden. It was windy, wintery, and raw, but I pulled two five-gallon buckets of rutabagas and another one of carrots. That&#8217;s it. I&#8217;m done. All but putting the garden to bed for winter. If it gets done, this year&#8230;

I&#8217;m busily cutting old screens I saved [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Today I finished up the last minute harvest in our garden. It was windy, wintery, and raw, but I pulled two five-gallon buckets of rutabagas and another one of carrots. That&#8217;s it. I&#8217;m done. All but putting the garden to bed for winter. If it gets done, this year&#8230;</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-662" title="Jackie_turnip" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Jackie_turnip.gif" alt="Jackie_turnip" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p>I&#8217;m busily cutting old screens I saved from the dump to make protective sleeves for all our fruit trees so the sneaky voles don&#8217;t tunnel under the snow this winter and girdle them. It&#8217;s pretty disheartening to have the snow go away, only to find chewed, white bare circles around the bark of your treasured fruit trees and knowing that they are dead. And as we have more than 35 fruit trees now, that&#8217;s a lot of cutting and tying! I finished the orchard trees and now have to do the dozen plum and cherry trees on the edge of our big garden. Whew! But it&#8217;s a good feeling to know that they are safe.</p>
<p>We had a few kohlrabi that didn&#8217;t get pulled this summer and they got HUGE. I left them, as I had other things to do. Today I noticed that the huge bulbs had little bumps on the sides; new little kohlrabis! How weird. Leaves and all! We&#8217;re going to have them for dinner tomorrow night and I&#8217;ll let you know how they tasted.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-663" title="Kohlrabi" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Kohlrabi.gif" alt="Kohlrabi" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p>The pantry looks great with all those potatoes, onions, carrots, and rutabagas, along with all the other great canned food. How comforting!</p>
<p><strong>Readers’ Questions:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Using grey water to water vegetables</strong></p>
<p><em>If you use the wash water from washing clothes to water turnips, carrots, and spinach, will it make them have a soapy taste?</p>
<p>Becky Mangum<br />
Ethridge, Tennessee<br />
</em><br />
It could. Instead, use grey water to water such crops as tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash, or others that you don&#8217;t directly eat from the root. You could eat spinach if it&#8217;s not directly watered so the grey water gets on the leaves. You not only have to think about the soapy taste, but possible bacterial contamination. It&#8217;s been found that grey water often has traces of E. coli in it and you could become sick from eating salad greens sprayed with your own grey water. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Outdoor stove for canning</strong></p>
<p><em>I am interested in purchasing an outdoor propane stove for canning or possibly cooking in case of an electrical outage. I read with great interest the article in BHM on how to organize an outdoor canning party. However, even after consulting the experts at Penn State recommended in that article, I cannot determine the best outdoor stove to purchase. In the guidelines to the Presto pressure canner, they recommended no more than a 13,000 btu stove, yet other articles suggested nothing short of 35,000 btu&#8217;s to get such a large pot boiling and keep it going at the correct temperature. Some articles even say large pots should be positioned between two burners. Though you did not write the article, could you give me some guidelines that I could use when purchasing a propane cooker for outside cooking and pressure canning?</p>
<p>Ann Stoner<br />
Port Matilda, Pennsylvania</em></p>
<p>Several catalogs carry a very simple L.P. stovetop that is very inexpensive. Among them are Northern Tool and Harbor Freight. Both of these work very well for canning. You don&#8217;t have to position the pot over two burners; one is very adequate and they turn up or down just like your kitchen range, making pressure canning very easy. They hook to a larger propane tank, such as a 20#-100# tank so you get by much cheaper and get more uses before you need a refill.</p>
<p>The one thing I don&#8217;t like about canning outdoors is that if there is a stiff breeze, it can crack hot canning jars, right out of the canner. I even close my kitchen window near my kitchen table while removing jars from the canner as long ago I lost four quarts to breeze-related cracks while they were just out of the canner. In the old days, we had summer kitchens outside. These were screened shelters with a kitchen range in them, large tables, and sometimes even a sink. We could get together and process lots of food in a short time without heating up the house. But the windows were able to be closed against a breeze from one side or the other so the jars did not crack.</p>
<p>Now, jars will not crack MOST of the time when you are canning outside, but believe me they can. So watch those breezes! Maybe you could set up in the shelter of the side of your garage or house. I&#8217;d hate to see anyone lose precious food! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Underground root cellar</strong></p>
<p><em>I want to build an underground root cellar. The only thing that I can find on the subject is having one in your basement. I don&#8217;t have one. Do you know of where (or who) can tell me how to make a root cellar. I know that BHM is selling a book on root cellaring but I am not sure that is what I am needing. I am looking forward to my birthday so I can get your new book. I know that I am going to LOVE it!</p>
<p>Alissa Ray<br />
Morganfield, Kentucky</em></p>
<p>Yes! Buy the <a href="http://www.backwoodshome.com/store/files/fp4.html">book by the Bubels</a> on root cellaring. It&#8217;s really good and gives plenty of alternatives to having a root cellar in your basement. It&#8217;s a total coverage on the subject and you&#8217;ll get plenty of help there. I hope you like the new book. Happy Birthday! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Basic canning video</strong></p>
<p><em>Totally enjoyed the latest video, Jackie! You know maybe in your spare time (hahaha) a video of some basic canning for the newbies to canning! Enjoy your books, have &#8216;em all!</p>
<p>Ginger Cornell<br />
Sweet Home, Oregon</em></p>
<p>That sounds like a great idea, Ginger. The trouble right now is that in my spare time, I sleep. Maybe on down the line we&#8217;ll figure something out if Dave and Annie think it&#8217;s a good idea. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Waterbath canning</strong></p>
<p><em>Have read your new book cover-to-cover twice and absolutely love it. In a lot of your canning recipes with high acid foods, you use the water bath method. Exactly what does the water bath canning do? I have canned tomato juice, pickled beets, salsa, peaches, pears among other things very successfully without using the water bath method&#8211;just fill the jars with the hot food and let them cool. I make sure the jars and the food are very hot, but I have canned this way for 30 years with complete success, all jars seal, and no spoilage. Of course, I use the pressure canner for green beans, canning whole tomatoes, and a host of other low acid foods. Am I missing something?</p>
<p>Barbara Ford<br />
Mount Washington, Kentucky</em></p>
<p>The method you use was common in years past. It can certainly work. BUT it has &#8220;holes&#8221; in it. The food is not heated long enough to kill certain molds, bacteria, and other &#8220;spoilers&#8221; that could not only spoil the food but make you sick. Just like canning green beans or other foods in a water bath canner, for long periods, can work, but it&#8217;s not safe, by far. For some foods, such as jams, jellies, or pickles, using the hot pack method that you use, is safer as there is either a very high acid content&#8230;like in the pickles or a high sugar/acid mix as in your jellies and jams. Usually these foods, if not properly sealed, will soften or mold, not make you sick. But for others, using the boiling water bath is much safer. If I didn&#8217;t feel it was necessary, I sure wouldn&#8217;t do it! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Large canner</strong></p>
<p><em>I&#8217;ve been researching and shopping (getting a headstart for Christmas!) for a second canner and I&#8217;ve all but decided on an All-American. I&#8217;m writing to ask your opinion though on if the All-American 930 that boasts it can hold 14 quarts would be the way to go or to stay with a smaller one that can hold only 7 quarts. I know that I want to have a canner tall enough to stack pints but I hadn&#8217;t thought about stacking the quarts. I knew you could lead me in the right direction. Thank you for all that you do!</p>
<p>Marlana Ward<br />
Mountain City, Tennessee</em></p>
<p>I love my old, clunky, huge canner that holds 16 quarts or 22 pints, but it is terribly heavy, even empty. I use that when I&#8217;m canning large amounts and want to finish quickly. But I&#8217;m now using my smaller canner more often. I can double deck pints and half pints and I still get a lot done at one time &#8212; and the clean-up is easier on my back! It&#8217;s totally a personal choice; you spend less time doing a batch of canning, or have a lighter canner to handle that will do a decent batch at one setting. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Great advice for self-reliance</strong></p>
<p><em>Love your column and blog. Based on your advice and the instructions in my Ball Blue book, I started pressure canning and dehydrating this summer. Now as I walk into my kitchen, I see the following: home canned veggie-beef soup simmering on the stove, a loaf of homemade bread, a bar of homemade soup by the sink, a very active sourdough starter on the counter, and surplus apples my hubby brought home from Arkansas in the dehydrator. Thanks for being such an awesome mentor for all of us who hope to be as self-reliant as possible!</p>
<p>Marianne Williams<br />
West Monroe, Louisiana</em></p>
<p>Such letters keep me writing! I&#8217;m so happy that you&#8217;re so actively becoming more self-reliant. Keep up the good work. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Trimming rabbit teeth</strong></p>
<p><em>I need your help. We are trying to raise rabbits (for pets), but we are running into trouble with their teeth. Right now our buck has teeth that are about 1 1/2 inches and the tops ones are curling back into his mouth, and the lower ones are just too long. He is having trouble eating and I have to help him get his water daily. What can I do? I&#8217;ve tried giving him wild plants to eat, but that didn&#8217;t help keep his teeth trimmed. Can we do anything ourselves, or do we need to take him to the vet?</p>
<p>Sheila Devane<br />
Seffner, Florida</em></p>
<p>Unfortunately, this condition is often hereditary. While you can take him to your vet and have his teeth trimmed/filed, I would not use him for breeding because he will likely pass this genetic defect on to his babies. If you still want to keep this buck for a pet, have his teeth trimmed, then keep some wood in his cage for him to chew on. Rabbits like chewing on such wood as apple, pear, aspen, cottonwood, or young willow. Give him wood that is at least a couple inches in diameter, not little twigs or branches. You want him to wear down his teeth naturally, if possible. This may or may not keep this problem from recurring. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Off flavor in boar meat</strong></p>
<p><em>I was reading about domestic boar pigs and that sometimes their meat has an off flavor etc. How can someone have a breeding program and still use the meat from boars? Also for young male pigs, does castration prevent the off flavors in adult meat?</p>
<p>Todd Goodnight<br />
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania</em></p>
<p>Yes. The meat from boar pigs often does have a bad flavor and smell when cooking. What I did when we raised many pigs was to use a young boar to breed my sows, then when they were safely bred, I would castrate him. After feeding him for a few more months, he would be butchered while still weighing about 250-275 pounds. There was never any off taste or odor and the meat was delicious. By using a young boar, he could be castrated when still light enough to be manageable, then butchered at a little above &#8220;ideal&#8221; weight. It worked well for me</p>
<p>And yes, again. Castrating young boar pigs while they are still on the sow or thereafter, prevents this off taste. &#8212; Jackie</p>
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/11/03/weve-had-snow-and-freezing-but-harvest-continues/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
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		<title>Goat breeding season is beginning on our homestead</title>
		<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/29/goat-breeding-season-is-beginning-on-our-homestead/</link>
		<comments>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/29/goat-breeding-season-is-beginning-on-our-homestead/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:07:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Clay</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Preservation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Self-sufficiency]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/?p=658</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s time we introduced our does to our new Boer buck, Thor. We breed two does the end of October or first of November, for late March or early April kids, and two a month or two later for May to late May babies. This gives two does to provide milk at the same time [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s time we introduced our does to our new Boer buck, Thor. We breed two does the end of October or first of November, for late March or early April kids, and two a month or two later for May to late May babies. This gives two does to provide milk at the same time for both the kids and us. And there is no milk-less period when ALL the does are dried up, which happens two months before they are due to kid.</p>
<p>This year we will be breeding our new milker this year, Fawn, and one of the triplet does, Jewel, first. That way we&#8217;ll have an experienced doe and a new mom kidding around the same time and we won&#8217;t have to break in two new milkers at once. It goes smoother that way for everyone concerned. It&#8217;s an exciting time, as we are planning for those great spring babies!</p>
<p>We&#8217;ve got the breeding pen built and Will&#8217;s welding up a gate for it, so we&#8217;ll soon be moving Thor up out of the goat pasture. He&#8217;s such an awesome buck that it&#8217;ll be neat having him up where we can see him more.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-659" title="Thor" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Thor.gif" alt="Thor" width="446" height="360" /></p>
<p><strong>Readers’ Questions:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Applesauce</strong></p>
<p><em>I made 2 batches of applesauce last night, the second batch was fine but the first batch did something I have never seen before. I made 7 pints in regular mouth jars. Everything the same as I always do, they looked fine after processing but as they sat they seemed to separate leaving a layer of what looks like sugar syrup in the bottom of the jar and the applesauce on top. I only used about 1/3 cup sugar for the whole batch. 4 of the jars are sealed tight and the headspace is the same, but 3 of the jars the sauce is touching the underside of the lid. The seals seem tight but there is definitely applesauce inside the rims as when I tried to unscrew them they were sticky and tight. Any suggestions to prevent this happening again? Is this still OK to eat?</p>
<p>Michelle<br />
Southwest Harbor, Maine</em></p>
<p>Is it possible that you processed that batch a little too long? Sometimes this causes &#8220;boil-out&#8221; of applesauce and could have resulted in the applesauce absorbing a little liquid from the kettle. That would be my guess here&#8230;and that&#8217;s all it is. But as long as the jars are sealed, the applesauce is fine to eat, but I would use it first, before the &#8220;normal&#8221; ones because the acid fruit could cause the underside of the lids to begin rusting after awhile. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Cleaning water tanks</strong></p>
<p><em>The water supply for my off grid home is an underground spring collected in two 2800 gallon tanks. I test the water a couple of times each year for bacteria and have never found any. My question is what is the best method for cleaning the tanks and how often do I need to do it?</p>
<p>Ken Bishop<br />
Rancho Mirage, California<br />
</em><br />
If your storage tanks are underground or otherwise out of the sunlight and there is no opening to the outside, save perhaps an overflow pipe, they shouldn&#8217;t need cleaning very often. If you can open one, use a flashlight and take a good look at the bottom and sides of the tank. As long as it looks clean and your tests come back negative, I wouldn&#8217;t worry about it. If you are getting sediment, algae, or a mineral coating on the tank sides, you can drain your tanks, one at a time. Open them up, use a new broom with a long handle and some diluted bleach in hot water (1/2 cup bleach to 5 gallons of water) to scrub out the tank. Then rinse it well, at least twice with clean water, pumping it out or otherwise keeping it from your house water lines, until the water and the tanks look and smell pristine. There are no &#8220;guidelines&#8221; for how often this should be done so we just have to rely on common sense on this one. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Washing eggs</strong></p>
<p><em>Should I wash my farm eggs before I put them in the fridge. Do you put your eggs in the fridge?</p>
<p>Pam<br />
Bigfork, Montana<br />
</em><br />
I wash my eggs only if they&#8217;re in need. Clean ones go right into the carton and into the fridge. I try not to use detergent unless they won&#8217;t come clean as it removes the protective coating naturally on eggs. But I want my eggs clean, too. So if they are soiled, I use a nylon scrubby pad and a bit of dish detergent, if necessary. If you keep clean shavings or straw in your nest boxes and clean bedding on the coop floor, you&#8217;ll have more clean eggs that don&#8217;t need washing. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Canning Oscar Mayer wieners in tomato sauce</strong></p>
<p><em>Years ago we had wonderful canned Oscar Mayer wieners with a tomato sauce. These were great for cub scout cook outs. I&#8217;ve checked and they don&#8217;t exist anymore. I&#8217;ve also looked for recipes for canning wieners and can&#8217;t find any. Is it possible to do at home?</p>
<p>Don Wood<br />
College Station, Texas</em></p>
<p>Yes, you can home can your own wieners in tomato sauce. The only trouble I&#8217;ve had canning hot dogs is that they swell a lot during processing. The taste is okay, though and maybe they wouldn&#8217;t in sauce. Just make your tomato sauce and slice your wieners, adding them to it. Leave 1 inch of headspace and process pints for 75 minutes and quarts for 90 minutes at 10 pounds pressure. Be sure to take into consideration any altitude adjustment necessary if you live over 1,000 feet; consult your canning book. I&#8217;d use wide mouth jars for ease of dumping out the canned food. &#8212; Jackie</p>
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		<title>Harvesting before the freeze</title>
		<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/27/harvesting-before-the-freeze/</link>
		<comments>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/27/harvesting-before-the-freeze/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:18:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Clay</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Preservation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>

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		<title>I advertised my young buck goat and nearly got scammed!</title>
		<link>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/22/i-advertised-my-young-buck-goat-and-nearly-got-scammed/</link>
		<comments>http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/2009/10/22/i-advertised-my-young-buck-goat-and-nearly-got-scammed/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:21:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Clay</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Animals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Preservation]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Meat]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/?p=652</guid>
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Living in the backwoods, I am seldom exposed to the unsavory segment of the population; no robberies, drugs, identity thefts, etc. But this week, I was hit by a scammer through an ad I&#8217;d put on the Duluth Craigslist (a very effective internet free shopper). I put an ad for this buck and another on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-653" title="buck-goat" src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/blogs/JackieClay/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/buck-goat.gif" alt="buck-goat" width="446" height="559" /></p>
<p>Living in the backwoods, I am seldom exposed to the unsavory segment of the population; no robberies, drugs, identity thefts, etc. But this week, I was hit by a scammer through an ad I&#8217;d put on the Duluth Craigslist (a very effective internet free shopper). I put an ad for this buck and another on the Craigslist and received a response from a &#8220;woman&#8221; who wanted to buy him, sight unseen. She even offered to pay $20 extra to hold him for her until she could get here to pick him up. (I&#8217;ve done that.) So I e-mailed her that that would be fine. The next night I had another e-mail from &#8220;her.&#8221; Her associate had mistakenly sent me a money order for another item she&#8217;d bought for a much larger sum. Would I please cash it and send her a Western Union wire for the balance?</p>
<p>RED FLAG!!!</p>
<p>I e-mailed her back that I would return her money order but that it was 30 miles to a Western Union. (And besides it sounded WAY FISHY to me!)</p>
<p>I got another e-mail, detailing closer Western Union merchants and saying that she had a family emergency and needed the money soon.</p>
<p>HUGE RED FLAG!!!</p>
<p>I e-mailed her back and repeated that I would send back her money order the same day I got it but that the Craigslist had a warning on it to beware of scammers wanting money transferred by Western Union; the money order or cashier&#8217;s check was bogus and you were left hanging for the money you wired&#8230;often hundreds of dollars.</p>
<p>I never heard from her again, AND after a week, I still haven&#8217;t gotten a money order. I can get mail from anywhere in the country in that time. I will never see the money order she sent, as she never sent one. She was waiting to see if the fish would bite the hook first, BEFORE she sent the bogus money order.</p>
<p>So this is just a warning to all you homesteaders out there. There are crooks everywhere&#8230;some as close as your computer! But this fish is still swimming. And I&#8217;ve still got a real nice Boer/Nubian buck for sale&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>Readers’ Questions:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Cedar apple scab</strong></p>
<p><em>Is there any way to control cedar apple scab?</p>
<p>Helen Tarter<br />
Otisco, Indiana</em></p>
<p>Cedar apple rust is spread from galls on red cedar trees within a couple of miles from your fruit trees. These galls are pretty orange, rough balls that, when wet by spring rains, cause spores to release and follow the wind to your apple trees. The best control is to plant resistant varieties, such as Freedom, Haralson, and Liberty. But to protect your existing trees, spray them with a fungicide, myclobutanil (Nova or Rally) or fenarimol (Rubigan) periodically, starting when the flower buds show pink and at 14-day intervals to a maximum of three sprays, or until cool wet weather (spring or early summer) is past. This will protect the emerging leaves and developing fruits. Sulfur is also known to help this disease and appeals to folks who want to use less chemical controls. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Yates Cider Mill</strong></p>
<p><em>Not a question just a comment. I knew you grew up in Michigan, and so did I. I was delighted to read that you used to go to Yates Cider Mill &#8211; I grew up only a few miles from there in Utica and your comment brought back wonderful memories of cold fresh cider and warm donuts&#8230; YUMMM!</p>
<p>Thanks for the column, I love reading it, and this week&#8217;s was wonderful for the memories!</p>
<p>And, here in Northern New Mexico, the rain all night turned this morning to snow. Can&#8217;t wait to try the carrots after the cold!</p>
<p>Natalie Dimitruck<br />
Los Alamos, New Mexico<br />
</em><br />
Strange world, huh? We lived near Gladstone, New Mexico for several years (about 27 miles east of Springer). Wasn&#8217;t Yates Cider Mill a great place, though! &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Pantry video</strong></p>
<p><em>Thank you so much for your wonderful information and sharing your family with us! Just wondering if you have a little extra time would you consider doing a video about your pantry? What it looks like and how you use your homecanned foods in your recipes? I&#8217;ve tried several of the recipes from the BHM cookbook and have gotten many thumbs up.</p>
<p>S. Sherman<br />
Trevett, Maine</em></p>
<p>I&#8217;m glad you have had such success with the BHM recipes. I&#8217;ll try to do a video for you and other readers, but right now time is SO hard to come by as we are getting ready for Minnesota winter, as well as trying to help Mom get home from the rehab facility. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Collecting rainwater</strong></p>
<p><em>I have a small cabin in Utah, totally off the grid, solar power, propane fridge and stove, 1500 gal water tank. My question is regarding collecting water from the roof, which is asphalt shingles. I bring all of my drinking/cooking water up there. Will the roof water be safe for day to day water &#8212; dishes, showers, etc.? Is there a filtration method that would make it so?</p>
<p>Brent Toft<br />
Henderson, Nevada</em></p>
<p>Yes, pretty much so. For showers, yes. But to be absolutely safe, boil your dish water first, before you cool it to wash the dishes. After all, birds do unappetizing things on your roof&#8230; In the old days, folks had cisterns, often in the basement, which caught rain runoff from the house roof and it was used for everything but drinking: cooking, coffee, washing, bathing. But, like I said, it&#8217;s best to be a little more cautious, given what we know about bacteria today. I wouldn&#8217;t be afraid to bathe or shower in catchment water, but I wouldn&#8217;t want to use it to rinse off my salad vegetables, dishes, or other uses that I might end up ingesting. Of course you can use a filter, such as the big Berkey, to filter your water, which would make it pure, even for drinking. But the filter cartridges for these filters are pricey, so I wouldn&#8217;t use one for shower water. &#8212; Jackie</p>
<p><strong>Dehydrating food</strong></p>
<p><em>First of all we have your new book and love it. Every time we get the new issue of BHM we go straight to Ask Jackie first. We live inside the boundries of the Uwharrie National Forest near Asheboro North Carolina. We have a big garden and put up quite a bit of produce each year, now that we have your book we&#8217;re starting to put up much more (using pint jars, love it)</p>
<p>My question is: In your opinion what is the best book on Dehydrating Food? We&#8217;re really starting to get into drying and have a big 9-tray dehydrator</p>
<p>Keep up the good work Jackie, God broke the mold when he made you</p>
<p>Leon Hale<br />
Asheboro, North Carolina</em></p>
<p>I like Mary Bell&#8217;s <em>Complete Dehydrator Cookbook</em> and the <em>Excalibur Preserve It Naturally</em>. These both will help you get a good start on dehydrating a wide variety of foods. I really love dehydrating foods as the flavor and appearance stays nice, AND the food takes up so little space on the pantry shelves. I&#8217;m doing chopped onions right now from my huge onion crop. They are so nice this year!</p>
<p>Yeah. God broke the mold; he went &#8220;Oh my gosh, how did THAT happen???&#8221; Ha ha. &#8212; Jackie</p>
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