On the nicer days of this late winter season, Will and I have been out dismantling our new, old mobile home. Boy what a mess! We’re salvaging a lot; some interior paneling for the goat barn and chicken coop, electrical wiring, boxes, switches and outlets, hinges, a good propane kitchen range, a nearly new turkey roasting pan, with lid, sauce pans, cake tins (not good enough to eat out of but make terrific seedling trays!), sheet aluminum from the roof and sides, to be re-used or recycled, AND the best of all, more than 40 14-foot 2×6s in great shape!

Of course, we won’t talk about the load upon load of particle board and cardboard that went onto the burning pile, along with assorted other crud. Yeah, I don’t like burning it either; all those not so nice fumes…but we did it in the snow, where most of the smoke was held to a low minimum.

We’re down to the frame now, which is what Will wanted to make a bridge over our creek with, and that will start to happen tomorrow when he and our friend, Jim, start cutting it down and welding it back together.

While they do that, his wife, Jeri, and I will be starting to plant my first tomato seeds. A great break from that UGLY trailer!

As a long-time seed saver, I have a lot of old seeds in my huge tubs of seed containers. So this year, I’m doing germination tests on some of them, to see how they’re storing. I did some 10-year-old corn seed and 11-year-old cabbage seed. The corn germinated 100%, but no cabbage yet. I dampen a paper towel, lay out the seed, each kind in its own towel, fold up the towels and put them in a jar, screwing down the top. I put the jar in a nice warm place and wait. It works very well to find out how good a batch of seed is; if lots germinate, great. If only a few or none, it’s time to switch to a different batch of seed and toss the old/non-viable seed.

But seeing those little corn roots gave me a burst of spring fever! So what if we have two feet of snow on the ground! Spring is coming to the backwoods.

Readers’ Questions:

Egg eating chicken follow up

This is more of a follow up than a question. I had asked about my egg eating chickens a while ago, well I have solved the problem by about 98%.

First we tried “Operation Spicy Chicken.” We planted three eggs that were filled with Frank’s Hot Sauce. Well the chickens took the bait, but unfortunately, I think they liked the hot sauce!

This led to plan B, “Operation Fowl Mouth.” We filled a couple of eggs with dish soap (you know, getting your mouth washed with soap!). This seemed to have slowed them down for a day or two, but didn’t do much good.

So then came plan C, “Operation Keep Away.” I took your advice and built a roll out nesting box. It’s more like a cabinet with 6 boxes, three on the top and three on the bottom. The chickens lay the eggs and as soon as they get up, the eggs roll safely out of reach. They have managed to peck a couple of eggs before they roll to the “safety zone” where there, the contents spilled out. However, they have not been able to actually eat any eggs for a while, and I think they forgot the taste. It’s been about a month since “operation keep away” and we’re back to having close to a dozen eggs a day!

David Rose
Buena Vista, Colorado

I’m really glad to hear back from you and that you’ve had such success. Egg eating is a learned behavior, so hopefully, it will be un-learned! Enjoy those eggs, the hens certainly did! — Jackie

Bugs in potting soil

Last year I planted some seeds in a commercial potting soil mix. About 6 weeks later I had thousands of real small flying black bugs show up on the small plants. Since the room was sealed. The buys had to enter from the potting mix. How can I stop these bugs from hatching out? Or is there a special potting soil that is commercially available that is sterile? How does one sterilize a large volume (50 cubit feet) of potting or garden soil.

Larry Danler
Pinedale, Arizona

Your flying black bugs were probably “fungus gnats,” kind of like fruit flies of potting soil. Yep, you probably got them from the potting soil. It happens with all but the “professional” grade of potting mix. You can sterilize any potting soil by putting it in large turkey roasting pans and cooking it in the oven at 250 degrees for 20 minutes. It does the trick and kills not only bugs and their eggs but also bacteria and fungus. — Jackie

Boiling home-canned foods

In the past few months I have seen several sources suggest that home canned foods should be boiled for 10-15 minutes before serving. This is supposed to be done to insure that no harmful bacteria that may have survived the canning cycle make it to the dinner table. I’ve been pondering this advice for awhile and I can’t make sense of it.

Low acid foods must be pressure canned at 240 degrees in order to kill any harmful bacteria. No amount of processing in a water bath canner at 212 degrees is sufficient to kill these microbes. If the preceding statements are true it would seem then, that if for some reason the trip through the pressure canner failed to kill the microbes, boiling the food after the fact would be pointless and ineffective. Am I missing something in my analysis or is the conventional wisdom of boiling home canned foods prior to serving perhaps just an old wives tale?

FH Aydelotte
Stevensville, Pennsylvania

No, it’s common sense. If everything goes perfectly during a typical session of pressure canning, the food, if sealed would also be perfect. Unfortunately, human nature gets in the way. The kids are sick and screaming and you don’t let your canner exhaust long enough. The dog is having puppies and your pressure goes down then spikes up as you “adjust it back.” The UPS man is at the door and you leave the almost simmering food warm on the stove, then pack it into jars and “hurry it up,” removing it from the canner 5 minutes early. You get the picture. To err is human! And the 10-15 minute boiling time is just to safeguard ourselves. This boiling time can also be roasting time, frying time, or broiling time, as well. — Jackie

Canning pickled cabbage

You recommended that someone can “pickled cabbage.” Can you give me the recipe for this and the processing times (pressure or hot water bath)? Also if you use Tofu in soup, is this canned like a meat or how long do you can it? I really enjoy your canning book. I’ve tried canning some of the things that you have answered to your readers (like hot dogs, meatballs, etc.) and I must say – my husband and I have really enjoyed them. Ball Park dogs taste better than the others. Much better than store canned vienna wieners.

Teresa Parker
Evansville, Wyoming

Pickled cabbage is a sweeter product than is sauerkraut and it is not fermented. It’s easy to do, too:

PICKLED CABBAGE

2 medium heads of cabbage
1 qt. cider vinegar
2 green peppers
2 cups sugar
1 bay leaf
1 stick cinnamon
1 tsp. whole cloves

Wash cabbage, shred, drain, and sprinkle salt over it, then cover barely with ice water. Let stand overnight. Drain and press water from cabbage. Cut peppers finely and add to cabbage.

Combine sugar, vinegar, add spices, and bring to a boil; boil for 10 minutes. Pack cabbage mixture into hot, sterilized jars; pour boiling hot pickling liquid over it, leaving 1/2″ of headspace. Process for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.

I honestly have never cooked much with tofu, but it is a bean product, not a meat, so you wouldn’t process it as a meat. Any canners out there who HAVE canned with tofu? — Jackie

Jars not sealing in the pressure canner

I have a canning question. My water bath canned items almost always seal. I never have had a batch go wrong. BUT when I pressure can, I always have some jars that don’t seal. Today I tried canning some chicken stock and only 1 out of 7 of my jars sealed. I am very discouraged and not sure what I am doing wrong. I had 1 inch headspace, tightened the lids just as I do for the water bath, wiped rims well, etc. Can something be wrong with my pressure canner or am I doing something wrong? Do all your pressure canned items seal every time?

Erica Leake
Manor, Texas

Yes, my pressure canned jars nearly always seal every time. Of course, there are oddball jars that don’t. A bit of fat or food gets lodged under the lid during processing, or the canning fairies are on strike. But, yes, nearly all the jars DO seal. Okay, it’s possible that something is wrong with your canner, but probably not. Let’s go over the steps and see if you’re missing something:

1. Put a couple of inches of water in the bottom of the canner and put the rack in. The rack keeps the jars off the bottom, reducing breakage.

2. Put the filled jars on the rack and tighten the lid down evenly.

3. With the exhaust petcock(s) open, turn on the heat and exhaust steam for 10 minutes or more depending on your canner’s instructions. Be sure there’s a STEADY stream of steam coming out, not just intermittent spurts.

4. Close petcock or put on weight.

5. When desired pressure (10 pounds unless you live at an altitude over 1,000 feet; consult your canning book for directions on increasing your pressure to match your altitude, if necessary) is reached, begin timing your processing, adjusting your heat to keep the pressure even.

6. When the desired time has passed, turn off the heat and allow the pressure to return to zero. DO NOT touch the petcocks to release any steam!

7. When the dial has reached zero, release any steam carefully and remove the lid.

8. Carefully remove jars and place on a folded, dry towel in a draft free area to completely cool. DO NOT touch the jars. NO wiping off residue, tightening rings, NOTHING. DO NOT PRESS on lid to “help” it seal.

9. When the jars are completely cool, you may check the seals and remove ring. You may also wash the jars, if needed, dry them and put them in your pantry for storage.

I sincerely hope this helps you find your problem! Canning is so much fun, but frustrating if something continually goes haywire! If this doesn’t work, have a friend bring their pressure canner over and can up a small batch of something together. If she does everything you did and has success, I’d suspect your canner. But quite probably, you’ll go “Oh my! I didn’t do that!” and your problem is solved. The best of luck! — Jackie

Dehydrating eggs

I have been looking for a way to dehydrate eggs. I have my own chickens and fresh eggs daily, And I have heard every thing from dipping them in bees wax to regular wax and also heard you can scramble them up and then dehydrate them until hard, then put them in a nut chopper until they become powder… And then take and wisk them with a fork and then strain them and place them on a solid bottom tray and put them in the dehydrator until totally dry and then place in chopper until powder.

Holly Cannon
Milton, Florida

To tell the truth, I’ve been leery of trying to dehydrate my own eggs because they are a very prime incubator for several not-so-nice bacteria. I prefer to buy my dehydrated egg powder, unfortunately, as I feel that processing companies have better control of humidity, temperature, etc. in the dehydration process. — Jackie

Breeding older goats

My friend has 3 Saanen goats, and she was wanting to breed her 8-year-old. This goat’s in heat, so she tried to find a stud. The woman who owned the stud told her that 8 years old is too old, is dangerous for the goat at that age, to be pregnant. Do you think it’s safe for her to have this 8-year-old bred?

Jeanne Allie
Storrs, Connecticut

Yes. If the woman who owns the buck feels strongly against breeding, find another buck. At 8 years old, the doe is just “middle aged”. I’ve had many does older than that in my milk string, which, of course had to be bred to produce milk. My one 12 year old doe produced not only triplets but 1 1/2 gallons of milk every day! — Jackie

Canning soup with cabbage

I have a wonderful veggie soup recipe. The recipe calls for cabbage, which I used. I was wondering if the cabbage would sour (like sauerkraut) if I canned the soup with the cabbage in it. I am afraid it would, what do you think?

Jane Dunn
Carrollton, Illinois

No, the cabbage will stay just sweet and mild. But add it last to your soup that is simmering and only simmer it long enough to wilt it down or it could get too soft during processing. Do be sure to can your soup in a pressure canner, using the length of time required for the ingredient needing the longest processing (i.e. meat, corn, etc.). — Jackie



Our land is a rectangular 80 acres of woods. Unfortunately, about 35 acres of that is across a creek, dotted with beaver ponds. The only way you can access it is by bulldozer or on foot during the winter…or by canoe in the summer. We needed a bridge, but it needed to be strong to carry our dozer or a pickup so we can haul firewood and logs from our “big woods” over there. Finally, Will figured that if we could find an old mobile home, he could use the steel I beams, doubled up, as the framework for a bridge. All fall, he hauled gravel from our hill, down to the creek, where the bridge needed to go, to raise the swamp level up to where it would remain dry, year round. And we kept an eye open for an old FREE mobile home nearby.

We struck paydirt a month ago when I saw a neighbor’s ad for a fish pond on Craigslist. We bought the pre-formed pond (good buy!), and Will noticed an old mobile home her husband had started to tear apart. He asked her what Gene was going to do with the frame. She said, “Do you want it? You can HAVE it!”

Luckily, it still had tires and axles on it. So last Saturday, Will, David, and friends went over with our neighbor, Jerry Yourczek’s huge four wheel drive tractor to move it home. I cringed at how UGLY it was! But I kept saying “bridge, bridge, bridge.” They worked hours, only succeeding on popping three right hand tires off the bead because the tires were frozen in the ground. But the next day, another friend brought three other tires and they hauled it away with no problems.

Now it sits, being dismantled, in our yard, up by our mobile home. Did I mention that it’s UGLY? But we’re harvesting much good material from it, from switches, gas lines, a good gas stove, furnace, siding, and windows. Plus the sturdy frame for our bridge. I’ll be SO glad when it’s disassembled and better looking! Will figures he’ll have it down to the floor by Saturday. Whew!

In the meantime, Mom was back in the hospital again. I didn’t get any sleep for three nights, so I was pooped when we started the whole moving-the-trailer thing. But antibiotics got her infection cleared up pronto, and she only was in the hospital for three days and is home now. And today, Mom ordered flowers for spring planting: daylilies, peonies, and lilies! Not bad for 94 years old in April, huh?

Readers’ Questions:

Re canning fruit cocktail

I have looked on internet for information on re canning fruit cocktail. I got 18 big cans for .50 a can. It is outdated. Such a deal. I need to put it into smaller jars. Can’t find directions to do so. Can you in your infinite wisdom tell me?

Nancy Foster
Dallas City, Illinois

You’ll be draining the cans and heating the liquid to simmering, then add the fruit. Pack hot into hot jars, leaving 1/2″ of headspace. Process pints for 20 minutes and quarts for 25 minutes in a boiling water bath canner. I’ve re-canned store bought fruit cocktail this way and had it turn out fine. — Jackie

Canning nuts

Hi! Quick question: Is it possible to can jars of different kinds of nuts in the same canner (pressure) for the same amount of time? IE: Jars of almonds, walnuts, pecans, etc.

Jan Eylar
Savannah, Missouri

Quick answer: YES! Enjoy! — Jackie

Hopi Pale Grey, recovering soil from herbicides and pesticides, and canning meats

I’ve read in the past about your Hopi grey squash. I looked for seed sources and only found reference to Hopi pale gray cushaw and Hopi black squash. Is the cushaw and your Hopi gray the same thing?

Also, We recently purchased 35 acres that we will build on in about 3 years (if I can stand to wait that long). In the meantime there are two fields on the property that are cash rented and planted in corn and beans. I’m letting the farmer go after this year and going to convert both fields into hay except for a large garden area. My question is, does it take a long time for the soil to “recover” from all the herbicides/pesticides that have been used on it over the years? I’m not interested in organic certification but intend on growing my food as naturally as possible.

Last question, I read all your articles about canning and just ordered your new book. I have wondered about the nutritional value of meat and other foods that require such a long canning time. If you cook your meat or soup beans, etc, then can them, is a lot of the nutrition lost? I have only canned tomatoes, green beans, stock, etc.

Sue McBride
Bethany, Illinois

No, Hopi Pale Grey (Cucurbita maxima) is more of a hubbard-type. The only commercial seed sources that I know of now are Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (website only) and Seed Dreams, gowantoseed@yahoo.com.

Congratulations on your new homestead! While it’s better if chemicals have never been used on land, it’s amazing at what some good stewardship can do in a short time. There are huge arguments over just how long land takes to “get over” having chemicals applied to it, but I’m sure that with some great care and natural gardening, your little piece of paradise will rejoice and reward you hugely.

While canning does slightly reduce the nutritional value of some foods, when you combine these foods with other home-raised, chemical-free foods, I believe it more than makes up for this slight reduction. — Jackie

Canning chocolate sauce

I’m a big fan and have been telling my friends how much I enjoy putting things up and how much I’ve learned from you. One of those friends asked if it would be possible to pressure can her mother-in-laws ‘Chocolate Gravy’. I had NO idea but figured you might. Can you help?

Here are the ingredients:

1 c. sugar
2 T flour
3 heaping T cocoa powder
2 c milk
1 T butter
1 t vanilla

Wendy
San Antonio, Texas

Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find any information on canning anything chocolate: sauce, mix, etc. It would sure be nice, though! — Jackie

Planting squash

Thank you for your great canning book! I used it a lot this fall and winter. It’s time to plan my garden. I know you’ve addressed this issue before, but can’t find it. There are four varieties of summer and winter squash I’d like to plant. How far apart do they have to be planted? My garden space is fairly limited. Could I erect one or two foot walls between rows to separate the varieties?

Jean in northern lower Michigan

There are five common varieties of squash (Cucurbita), C. pepo, C. maxima, C. argyrosperma, C. mixta and C. moschata. These varieties each have many varieties in them and these varieties will cross if not separated by planting far apart. It is recommended that they be planted 1/2 mile or more apart, although I’ve had great luck by planting them several hundred feet apart, separated by hills and woodlands. You can still grow a variety of squash and save seed from only one or two different varieties of the species. For instance, you can grow several summer squash (C. pepo) and a pumpkin, (also a C. pepo) and not save seed, but grow Hopi Pale Grey or Hubbard squash (C. maxima) and save THAT seed, as well as a butternut (C. moschata) and a cushaw (C. mixta), also saving seed. It IS kind of hard to understand, at first. But with a little bit of study, I’m sure you can figure it out!

No, planting a two foot divider between varieties will not work. Squash is chiefly insect pollinated and where bees and other insects can go, the pollen they carry will go. Plant breeders build isolation cages over their squash beds to prevent insects from carrying pollen, so they can plant different varieties much closer. However, when you do this, you often have to hand-pollinate the blossoms, which is labor-intensive. It’s easier to only grow a few different varieties each year and save pure seed from them. Then on other years, try a new one or two, also saving seed. Not only is it economical, but tons of fun, too. If you are not interested in saving seed, it doesn’t matter how many squash varieties you plant. The cross breeding will only affect NEXT year’s crop, through the seeds. — Jackie

Keeping pasta sauce

If I purchase pasta sauce in jars that are sealed how long will they last and how long will the jar last past the expiration date?

Renee Rains
Marthaville, Louisiana

Nearly forever. Like home-canned foods, store bought foods will stay fine as long as they are sealed. Things that can cause a seal to break are a rusting lid, over-heating during storage, and rough handling. — Jackie

Storing root vegetables

How do I go about storing beets, carrots, celeriac, rutabagas, turnips, and parsnips? Trim tops and leaves or not? If so, how far down? Bury in sand? Upright or in a jumble? I have a hallway which will stay around 40-45 degrees during the winter, but the problem seems to be generating humidity. How can I turn my chilly hallway into a root cellar?

Kristina Dickinson
Montague, Massachusetts

Most root crops store well with the tops trimmed down to only an inch; more and the tops rot and cause the loss of the food. It’s always best to store crops separately. I’m using large plastic coolers and tubs with tops and that’s working well without adding sand or other material. It’s February now and my root crops are just as firm and nice as they were when harvested. I think you’ll have luck using the plastic coolers/tubs, as they hold in humidity, without getting TOO wet. Do check them from time to time to make sure there isn’t excess condensation in the containers. If that seems to be happening, just prop the tops open for a day or so.

I don’t think it matters how you lay your root crops. I just pack mine flat to save space. — Jackie

Deep bed gardening

While I have been hibernating, I have been reading a lot about deep bed gardening. But for some reason I just can’t figure out how to do this without tilling. I have a 24′x 24′ garden space and last year I put in 4′ strips across, leaving about 1 foot for walking space. I tilled the whole thing except where I have my herbs growing across the front. And I had such a time with weeds! I figured I must have tilled too deep? So this year I would like to try the deep bed method. Is there any advise you can share with me or direct me in accomplishing this? If I put in the 4′ strips again, Do I build these up so they are higher than ground level? and then mulch? At the end of the growing season I planted an oats/barley mix so I will have some green manure residue on the garden for spring.

Pamela Lawstuen
Alma, Wisconsin

Regarding your weed problem: weed seeds sometimes lie dormant in the soil for a long time and when you work the soil, new seeds come to the surface and germinate. It can be a problem, but if you are steadfast, you’ll overcome it in time. Double digging does improve your soil and harvest. To do this remove the soil from the first row, all across your garden, piling it in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Then dig down again, in the same spot, while standing in the trench, turning over the soil. Move to the next row, turning the top layer over into your first trench, filling it all across the area. Repeat this process, until your entire plot has been dug.

If your soil is not fertile, adding an inch or two of rotted compost on top of the area before double digging will help out. Your green manure, chopped and added to your garden, will add fertility and tilth to the soil, as well.

For a detailed look at double digging and intensive gardening, read the book, HOW TO GROW MORE VEGETABLES by John Jeavons. — Jackie

Moving berries and fruit trees

I will be relocating in a few weeks. I want to take my asparagus, blackberries, strawberries, grapes and fruit trees with me when I move. The asparagus and blackberries are about three years old and the grapes, strawberries, and fruit trees were planted last spring. What is the best way to do this?

Nana Texas
Celina , Texas

First of all, be sure you can legally take your perennial plants & trees. Sometimes, if you sold your place, the owner legally owns them; be sure.

If you’re not moving a great distance, dig your plants with as much soil around the roots as possible and pack them in plastic lined heavy boxes/tubs, for the trip. Even if you are moving a long way, sometimes you can still do this, if you have the room. Otherwise, if the plants are dormant, you’ll have to gently remove the soil from the roots, then pack the roots in damp shredded newspaper or peat moss, then wrap the roots in plastic. This conserves room/shipping weight. Try to plant as soon as you get to your new home. Meanwhile, keep the plants as cool and damp as necessary to keep the roots from drying out. But don’t soak them, as they may mold or rot. All the best luck with your move! — Jackie

New to self-reliant living

I’m new to the concept of living “off grid” and being self-sufficient. How do I find all the information I need to make the best decision possible. I’m a widow with no kids at home, so I would be doing this solo. Any ideas?

Diane Waite
Middletown, Pennsylvania

I’d pick up several of the BHM anthologies, as this is a concentrated spot for tons of practical information. Go to the library and READ, READ, read everything pertaining to the type of lifestyle you are aiming for. Doing it solo may seem hard, but it also has a few benefits; you only have yourself to provide for. Your needs are really quite small. You only have to be responsible for yourself, so there are fewer distractions along the way (arguments, other peoples’ wants and needs, etc.). I’m not saying it is better to do it alone, only that it certainly can be done if you have the patience to do it a bit slower than if you have a helper. Keep in touch through the blog and ask any specific questions you have, along the way. I’ll try to help as often as you ask! All the very best with your quest. You are starting on a terrific adventure! — Jackie

Cotton seed

Do you know of a source for open-pollinated, non-hybrid cotton seed? I know your expertise leans more towards food products, but I figured if anybody out there could answer this, you could.

Mark Davis
California, Missouri

Well, I kind of do….Native Seeds/SEARCH has open pollinated cotton seed, but only sells to AZ, NM, and TX. Do any readers have help here? I’ll keep looking. — Jackie

Lame chicken

I have backyard chickens, and one of them has suddenly become lame. She balances on one leg, occasionally putting her “bad” foot down, but generally holds it up with the toes splayed and occasionally shaking. I check “the girls” over each weekend, and her sensitive leg does correspond to when I had her out of the coop. I’m hoping she’s just sprained something in her rush to get out of my hands – sometimes they get excited and fight being handled or scratch and flap to get put down. I’ve been checking her over, and against the other two members of the flock, she is bright-eyed, with good colour, no sign of mites or scale, and is gamely hopping up into the nesting box to lay each day (we have light from a heat lamp). I have given her extra protein – with tuna and small portions of cat food, and checked for everything else I can think of. Do you have any experience with lameness, or any other suggestions? Due to her poor balance, her grooming is lacking, and I’m worried about secondary problems due to her dirtiness. I hesitate to wet her, as the temperatures are low outside, and I don’t want her to catch a chill.

Ellen
Surrey, British Columbia

Like us, chickens, being two-leggeds, sometimes sprain or strain muscles or tendons and have to hop about for awhile. Hopefully, that’s all that’s happened with your gimpy hen. I don’t think her dirtiness will cause problems. Sometimes if you bed the coop with shavings, it will help absorb manure, which, in turn may help with that until she recovers.

Do check the bottom of her foot. Sometimes chickens bruise the bottom of their foot and get “bumble foot,” which is an abscess in the soft tissue in the center of the foot. This can be drained and treated with betadine. — Jackie

Composting chicken manure

I have been practicing organic gardening for many years. In the past few years I have added chickens and have plans to add a couple of dwarf goats. To get the maximum advantage of the nitrogen in the manure without burning plant roots, how long do you compost the manure products?

Debbie Boutelier
Prattville, Alabama

It kind of depends on how “good” a composter you are. Some people have time and the inclination to water and turn their piles, which makes them decompose much faster than mine does. We pile all of our manure and miscellaneous plant waste in a huge pile that gets watered by the rain, but not turned or pampered by us. That is put up in the spring from barn and yard cleanings. By fall, it is composted well enough to haul to the garden and spread. It is either tilled in (hopefully!) or let lay on the garden until it gets worked in when the soil can be tilled in the early spring. By then, either way, it is decomposed well and provides our plants with plenty of nitrogen, but not too much.

Someone with more inclination could compost their spring waste and have it garden ready in about six weeks. We’re not in that much of a hurry. — Jackie