table saw recommendations

[bee_pipes]

Don't know much about them, but have gotten to the point where one would be pretty useful - ripping boards with a skill saw is a bugger of a job. Anybody got brands, models or other recommendations? What about features - ranging from nice to have to deal-breakers you can't do without?

Appreciate any experienced opinions. This is for use around the homestead and not to be the main tool of a business.

Regards,
Pat

[Deberosa]

Don't know much about them, but have gotten to the point where one would be pretty useful - ripping boards with a skill saw is a bugger of a job. Anybody got brands, models or other recommendations? What about features - ranging from nice to have to deal-breakers you can't do without?

Appreciate any experienced opinions. This is for use around the homestead and not to be the main tool of a business.

Regards,
Pat
Good question, also I would like to know what brands are better to look for. I see lots of table saws at garage sales - but can't tell if they are worth the money or not... Also - my Dad had a Radial Arm saw instead of a table saw and my Brother still uses it - is that something to consider instead?

[Baxtherin]

Craftsman. I've got a Sears Craftsman table saw that is over 50 years old that i just picked up for 80 bucks and it works wonderfully. Check the local classifieds or craigslist or other free ad agency you might have. That's where i picked mine up. I actually bought 2 the same day, one for me and one for my buddy who needed one too. mine was 80 bucks, his was a cheaper and newer model for 40 bucks. I don't remember exactly what brand it is though but it works well too. I am not familiar with any other brands, but if you go mid range when buying one, you should get something that will last as long as you need it to for just work around the homestead.
-Travis

[Dawgus]

There are a lot of inexpensive mid name brands out there, and generally a lot of good used ones can be found. My only reccomendation is to stay away from the small "benchtop" models. They're fine for small hobby use, but are too wobbly and just plain dont have the guts for larger jobs. I had a craftsman benchtop, and the thing just seemed to bog down when I was ripping a lot of lumber. Plus, without making or buying some kind of arm addition, or using roller stands, it was impossible to use for cutting large sheets of plywood.

[DM]

Craftsman is good if it's VERY old, if not, then it should be named crapsman...

You didn't set a budget, so this is hard to answer...

I have two Delta Unisaws, and new ones are quite expensive, but i bought a used one for $150.00 and it's a great saw. That would be my first choise for a really good tablesaw without paying a new price... Unisaws are the saw all others are compared to!

Most all of the cheapo models today are made in China or who knows where?? They are light duty and like most china junk, they differ from saw to saw as to how long they will last.

Cheapest cabinet model tablesaw i'd buy would probably be a Unisaw "copy" from Grizzly tools...

For something less expensive than that, i'd look at warr. and only buy a saw "after" i looked it over to see that it's all there and works smoothly ect...

Personally, i'd pick a tablesaw over an radial arm saw every time...

DM

[MooseToo]

patience - there are a lot of good old table saws out there doing nothing but taking up space - watch the auctions, the estate sales, etc - and wait until you find a BELT -DRIVEN saw -

[Deberosa]

My Dad's old radial arm saw is a Craftsman - he got it I think before I was born which was a LONG time ago and it still works like new.

[Baxtherin]

Yeah, my Craftsman is a belt driven saw. I swear the belt on it is the original. I should get a new one sometime soon. Maybe in the next 50 years. ;D
-Travis

[tufhelp]

If one of the main functions you’re interested in is ripping, that is not the real forte of the radial arm saw. It will accomplish the task but I find them highly prone to kick back – the saw throwing the work back at the operator. It has to do with the direction of blade rotation vs. the direction of feed through; the work also tends to ride up. When ripping the blade guard is adjusted to not allow the board to rise up as it travels through the saw – good idea except when the board is slightly irregular or warped – then the board will bind on the blade guard – loosen it up and then it will be flopping up and down – it can real exciting. My older craftsman radial arm even mentions this in the instructions. Once I got a table saw I do all that type of work on it. I got a Chinese look-alike to a 10” Delta tilt arbor full size table saw 15-ish years ago for $289.00 when the deltas were running about $1,000.00 . It took a bit of tweaking to get set up true and square, but it has performed well. Ripping on a table saw is much easier BUT remember to keep your wits about you, you tend to be in closer proximity to the running blade and they are not forgiving at any time.

[machinemaker]

I too prefer a belt driven table saw as opposed to a direct driven saw. I also think that a heavy cast iron top is better, heavier = less vibration and not shaking the fence out of place. I too would look for a used saw, they are around. I like indusrtial auctions, www.govliquidation.com and word of mouth. A freind bought a saw, lathe and jointer at a yard sale a widow was having. Beautifull well cared for equipment and they both were happy about the sale.
kent

[knucklehead]

Mostly I'd echo the others here - older Craftsman saws, Rockwell/Delta, etc. Look for something with a cast iron top, the more finely milled the better (go look at many modern cheap tablesaws, drill presses, bandsaws to see a rough table). When you are at a yard sale or calling on the phone, ask if it can be run - the smoother it runs the better. If you are not into taking things apart and cleaning/truing stuff up, pass on ugly/vibrating ones until you find someone who just doesn't use their clean, well maintained saw anymore or who is upgrading.

ALWAYS ask if there is anything that comes with it - the difference between a $250 table saw and a $350 unit might be $500 worth of stuff the second guy just wants you to haul off with it - fences, table extensions, feed guides, dado sets, molding heads and blades, blades, blades, and more blades. if you don't care about that stuff you can always swap or sell it.

One of the quickest ways to tell over the phone if you are talking to someone who cares for their stuff is ask if they have the manuals - it's almost a failsafe when inquiring about anything that if they have manuals and know where they are, the equipment is possibly better cared for.

[Skooter]

Older Craftsman here too !! 25+ yrs old still all orig, even the belt. Bought new on sale $2 something, can't remember !!!
Bought another older one about 10 yrs ago for $50, best part was it had a dozen new blades with it still in new packaging, angle guide, box of clamps. It was at an estate sale.
Most of my stuff came from estate sales, estate auctions, going out of business auctions etc. Haven't bought a new large power tool since that first table saw.
Gotta scour the trader type classifieds, rural newspapers, etc.

[homesteadingnky]

I know they cost a little more but the dewalt is the best I've ever used. I guess it depends on how much abuse your going to give it, but the dewalt can take a beating and keep right on going! I lay hardwood for a living and so I used them a lot. Dewalt by far is my favorite for several reasons. It's durable, I love the way everything is set up on it, and the fence is the best I've used. We cut a lot of wood on them though as we can lay between 1000 -1500' on a good day. If you're not going to use them that much then a cheaper saw might be an ok investment.

Homesteading Dad