Butcher Block table

[Pigzzilla]

Hi all, I'm fairly new to this site, been reading a lot and you all seem like a very knowledgeable bunch.

I have a question for the woodworkers here. Hubby is putting together a "table" for me to shove the portable dishwasher (yep, still in the city) under. It's 2x4 frame now with some bead-board panel on 3 sides. Was going to use a 3/4" plywood top until I hit a yard sale. I came home with a slab of bowling alley lane for $10. It's 38x37x3 and finished on the top side. The bottom side looks like it has never had any thing on it. Will cut it down to 36x30. Sucker weighs about 200 pounds!!

My question for you, after it is cut down and sanded all over, what should I put on the surface to seal it, if anything? I'm not sure but the wood appears to be oak or maple in 1/2" to 3/4" strips like a butcher block. I will be using it in food prep. so I need something food safe.

Thanks in advance

[GREEN_ALIEN]

You can use any of the following:

Preserve Master Blend, Woodworkers Cream and Tung Oil - This is great stuff but can get spendy.

BEHLEN Salad Bowl Finish - As good as the above IMHO but a little slower to cure. For all kitchen food grade wood surfaces.

General Finishes Butcher Block Oil - Just a bottle of food grade Mineral Oil and does not seem to last long, needs frequent recoats. Once the surface is saturated well it is a good product.

Ted

[Pigzzilla]

Thank you for your info. I will let you know how it turns out.

[Zarah]

What a wonderful find!!! I knew some folks who had an entire kitchen counter made from old bowling alley flooring... it was drop-dead gorgeous and very functional -- you can't beat good-quality hardwood that's had plenty of time to dry and cure.

We have a couple of wooden cutting blocks that we regularly treat with plain old vegetable oil. We've been using our cutting blocks with just the veggie oil for several years without any problems, although my husband (a chef) says that food-grade mineral oil is preferable since it won't go rancid.

[fredusa]

Yeah!! Great find!
Also, GREAT advice! As GreenAlien says, the food grade mineral oil will do great, but requires a lot of treatments until the wood is saturated, then an occasional touch up.
Oh, and if it's really from a bowling alley that should be oak. Oak holds up lots better to the abuse of the alley than would maple.

[DM]

Oh, and if it's really from a bowling alley that should be oak. Oak holds up lots better to the abuse of the alley than would maple.

Actually, my grandmother lived in the same town as Brunswick. For many years she bought dump truck loads of ally cutoff's and all were Maple. (to heat with) Hard maple holds up just as well as oak and has much smaller pores to boot. (sugar maple)

These days allys are mostly made from a synthetic material...

DM

[Pigzzilla]

Thanks, everybody. Yes, it is real bowling alley lane. The guy I got it from, his family were ranchers. He said he did construction work in the past and his crew tore down the Oak Bowl several years before. Said his Dad kept this slab in back of his pickup and used it when they killed chickens or rabbits or other critters. For now, it's still in the back of my truck and if it ever snowed here it would be great for traction!

[Bones]

I use the cheapest mineral oil I can find on the one I built. Walgreens brand. One bottle goes a long way. I guess food grade stuff would work better. I did stumble across a gallon jug of food grade stuff so that should last me years now. I would still had used drug store variety now if I had not got a good deal on the food stuff. No harm to us after three years of steady use.