Help with older mobile home/trailer

[bee_pipes]

We have an older double-wide. The last owners put in a heat pump and the folks that did the work redid the vents. I have a bunch of old registers in the middle of the floors (the new ones are around the outside walls) that collect dirt, get bent up from furniture legs and cause other nusiance problems. The surrounding floor is linoleum.

We managed to close off two when we redid the floor in the kitchen - the register removed, the old vent hole was filled and a piece of roofing tin was caulked and nailed down over the hole. This worked fine because new flooring was going down over the top.

Has anybody found a good solution for removing these old registers and fixing the floor without replacing the floor?

Also, I have a seam between two sheets of linoleum that is sticking up. It's in a high traffic area of the floor. How can I faltten the lips of the sheets back down flush?

Regards,
Pat

[cinok]

is it glued down or just held in by trim on the perimeter. sometimes they just glue the edges. yoy might be able to reglue the seam and roll th seam with someting heavyaka big rolling pin make such there is no junk under it. for the vents if the pattern is simple and you have a closet or some other unseen area you may be able to make a patch from that area. Good luck.

[shadowwalker]

Hey I just did this! I cut out a rectangle piece slightly smaller than the hole. After taking out the metal peice around the old hole. I then put a small 3/4 inch square piece 3/4 of a inch below the floor surface. I tacked this in with predrilled holes and 1 1/4 nails. I hammered the nails in with the side of the hammer. I did this all the way around. That let me put a 7/16 piece of hsb board in and was almost flat. I then put a rectangle piece of carpet I cut out of the closet least used. in the hole and guled it down. It's slightly different, newer, but still matches.

[crafty2002]

To start with you need to remove the duct going to the register at the trunk line and cap it off. If it is a rectangle duct, cut a 2 x 10 to fit as tightly as you can egt it to fit inside of the outlet at the trunk.
Put silicone chaulking all around it before you put it in for good.
Then for the register holes cut a piece of plywood about 4 inches larger in both directions than the hole. Mark out the size of the hole on this piece and run 4 screws into it leaving the heads about 3/4" up, and put them about an inch from the corners of the marking you made on the inside of it. Set aside for a couple minutes.

Next drill a series of 1/8" holes all around the hole to be plugged.

Now you can take the rectangle with the screws in it and turn it so it will go down through the hole with the screws on top. Move it around until you have the 4 screws pretty much centered into the corners of the whole and tak two claw hammers and hook the screw heads at opposit corners.
When pulled up pretty tight run a screw through a hole you drilled as close to the hammers as possible.
Then move the hammers to the other two corners and repeat.
Then just fill all the holes with the screws making sure the heads go down just below the surface of the wood. If they don't, remove the screws a couple at a time and use a 3/4" or so drill bit and just counter sink just a little bit.
After you have that completed cut a piece to fit the hole and "GLUE" it in. It needs to be thinner than the flooring already there. Check to see how much clue you will need to make it flush out and walla. Floor patched, except you should use something like Iron Man floor patch and smoth and area that isn't competely level after the glue dries and all the holes also.
Hope this helps.
Dennis

[harvester]

when we had our trailor we just tore out the furnace, sealed up the holes in the floor. and put in a wood stove..lol
sometimes you gotta say "scr#* it!"

[CarolAnn]

Pat -
I did quite a few repairs on my Dad's old trailer floors. His subflooring was that pressed wood junk that turns to mush when it gets wet. He had some roof leaks, so the floor had quite a few soft spots, especially by the doors. I used a box knife to cut a larger rectangle around the soft spot & saved the linoleum from that area. Removing the soft subflooring was fairly easy - I used a combination of tools to cut & chisel it out as neatly as I could so the edges would be straight, & not cut through the joists under it.

We couldn't afford to replace the whole subfloor, so I went to the lumberyard and found some joist hangers. They're metal pieces that are not designed to do what I did with them - I cut 2 x 6 boards to fit cross-wise between the existing joists and used the joist hangers to hold them in. (I thought it would be stronger than toe-nailing the new pieces and it was.) I made sure that after I cut the square of soggy junk out I would have a nice support all the way around the sides with this extra framing. I stuck in a couple extra 2 x 6 pieces in front of the doors to make it even more solid. Then I patched in a piece of plywood the same thickness as the pressed wood flooring around it to cover the hole. I used contact cement to glue the same piece of linoleum in that I had cut out, because within a year they were planning on buying new flooring. The places I patched were stronger than the original floor. It wasn't exactly pretty, but it was strong.

[flatwater]

Good fire insurance and a fool proof alibi would work. Just kidding I think , really another way to fix the seam problem (which I had to do last year) is buy some aluminum joint strips. They usually come in 10 or 12 foot lengths. They have a bevaled edge on both side and are about an inch wide. They screw down. This worked and was cheap until I could afford a new floor. The only problem with glueing is , there is usually to much dirt and stuff that accumulates in the split and the glue does not stick for long. Good luck

[huckelberry]

the way to get rid of the seem is....fix all,its a powder,you mix it and apply to the seem and any irregularitys in the wood floor,then sand it smooth....kinda like you would finish sheet rock,then the vinel flooring will be smooth and no seems showing or wearing out too soon.any hardware store has this stuff...good luck