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jen_in_southtexas
12-16-2007, 05:46 AM
My chainsaw had been working fine till about 2weeks ago. I was cutting some wood and then suddenly the chain fell off. I thought ok i'll just put it back on. That worked for about 30seconds then it fell again. Tried again,fell again. So I cleaned it of debris, grease, etc. I even replaced the old bar and chain oil with new bar and chain oil. Put the chain back on, adjusted it, and it was rolling alright but now it wouldnt even cut through a 2inch branch. Then the chain fell off again. Needless to say I got tired of fussing with it and after exchanging some words with the chainsaw >:( i took the blade and chain completely off and put it away for another day. What could the problem be?

-j

SPIKE
12-16-2007, 06:07 AM
Sounds like the chain needs adjusting or it may be too streched to adjust properly. The drive sprocket may also be too worn. Sometimes a goove can get worn in the drive sprocket.

SPIKE

bee_pipes
12-16-2007, 06:08 AM
This might sound like a stupid question - but do you have tensioned? You said you adjustd it. If you replaced the bar, I'm assuming you tensioned it.

Check the drive sprocket on the engine - you might be missing teeth or something that would allow the chain to jump off. I'm guessing a new bar means at least one time you had a good sprocket at the end of the bar.

Do you have a manual? If not, there are a lot of manuals on the internet - try googling the make and model.

That must be a pretty frightening sight - chain coming off an operating chainsaw.

Regards,
Pat

What make is the chainsaw?

Gibbonboy
12-16-2007, 06:42 AM
Most modern saws have a chain catcher, just a little metal tab under the oiler, usually. Keeps the loose chain from slapping you in the leg when it comes off. I assume you're wearing proper UL-listed saw chaps, yes? If you haven't already, you need to read the manual, cover to cover. Also, look in your area for "Game of Logging", you can get a great safety course, as well as learning how to use a saw in the woods efficiently. All that being said, if it's not an adjustment issue, the sprocket is probably scored. Not a big expense to replace. What happens many times is that either the chain or bar gets burrs, and will not fit right again. Take the whole thing to a qualified service tech and have them go over it. Might cost you a few dollars, but cheaper than getting a saw chain removed from your thigh. Be safe.

Mac_Muz
12-28-2007, 05:25 PM
What brand of saw is this? Make and modle matter. Some saw have a drive gear that can be tuff to get the drive links into and I think yours might be one. My Husky is, and it is far easier to think you have the chain in the slots, and not that you might think.

My guess is you missed this and so then you adjusted the chain and it slipped on the next use... Which would explain the cutters not moving to cut very well.

odie
01-20-2008, 09:02 PM
Whenever I've had the chain come off, it has been because I didn't tighten it after I'd cut a few branches or logs. As soon as I start to use the saw, the chain gets hot and it stretches. Sometimes I'm too lazy or stupid, or in too big a hurry, and I keep on going instead of stopping and tightening it. I've got a another big gripe, though, regarding my Husqvarna 55 Rancher. My wife bought it for me for Christmas a few year back. (I was suitably grateful.) Here is the problem - the Operator's Manual says that the needle bearings on the drive sprocket need to be lubricated regularly, just like adding chain bar oil every time I fill the gas tank. However, there are no instructions as to how do disasssemble the saw to get to the needle bearings. On their very unhelpful website, it says that this needs to be done by an authorized service center. Excuse me, but do they really think that everytime I fill the gas tank and chain bar oil tank I'm going to get in my pick-up and drive to an authorized service center - if I could even find one? Also, my drive sprocket is showing extreme wear and needs to be replaced. Same deal. The manual provides no instructions on the disassembly necessary to replace the drive sprocket, but again says go to an authorized service center. Either they have a major design flaw requiring authorized service centers to do what should be user service and repairs, or their manual is highly deficient. Anyone else have similar experience, and if so, what is the solution? Thanks for taking time to read my reply and rant.
Odie. ::)

BIGGKIDD
02-24-2008, 05:46 AM
Hi All,

Don't know if this will help but when I cut cedar (a lot lately) my chain gets loose fast. Something in this particular wood causes faster wear. But the chains have tossed of a few times and the other week I did exactly what someone else mentioned didn't have the chain properly seated in the sprocket. Well that didn't stay long. Make sure you are lifting the bar when you tighten it if not the chain will be loose soon as you make your first cut.

Larry

Drawbar
06-21-2008, 11:48 AM
Hi All,

Don't know if this will help but when I cut cedar (a lot lately) my chain gets loose fast. Something in this particular wood causes faster wear. But the chains have tossed of a few times and the other week I did exactly what someone else mentioned didn't have the chain properly seated in the sprocket. Well that didn't stay long. Make sure you are lifting the bar when you tighten it if not the chain will be loose soon as you make your first cut.

Larry

Cedar is a very tenacious wood. It does not seem like it because the wood is very light in weight, but its the limbs that play havoc with the chain. The old timers use to use two bit axes for cutting cedar, the first for felling and the second for limbing...there is no way they were going to ruin their sharp felling edge on a cedar limb.

So what is happening is, your saw chain is getting dull. That chain is getting hot because its got more friction on it, and so the chain stretches because steel expands as it gets hot.

What a lot of people don't understand is that they are also ruining their chainsaw. Heat from the chain also heats up the bar,and the bar is bolted to the saw body...yep...right next to the crankcase. That is the one spot you DON'T want heat. It can huff a piston or burn a crankshaft in no time.

There is more to keeping your saw sharp at all times then just fatigue. It will keep your saw running for years and years.

By the way, I never cut cedar limbs with my saws. I dig out an axe and beat the limbs off. Its better to do that then ruin a good saw.

MooseToo
06-21-2008, 12:09 PM
you replaced the chain, did all the adjustments, and THEN it would not cut -

not trying to be a smartass, but you wouldn't be the first person to put the chain on backwards -

WRTN
06-21-2008, 12:35 PM
you replaced the chain, did all the adjustments, and THEN it would not cut -

not trying to be a smartass, but you wouldn't be the first person to put the chain on backwards -

LOL! ROTFLMAO! ;D I have that t-shirt! That and trying to get the chain untangled out of the box. ::) ;)

wittey
08-02-2008, 11:06 AM
you replaced the chain, did all the adjustments, and THEN it would not cut -

not trying to be a smartass, but you wouldn't be the first person to put the chain on backwards -
I found a perfect running chainsaw in dumpster a few years ago that the only thing wrong was that the chain was on backwards. ;D

redneck514
08-26-2008, 01:02 PM
their are several things that can cause this the first to check would be you chain adj but not nowing the type of saw i cannot tell you what to look for to see if its bad the other can be your bar if the bar is wore badly no amount of tension can keep it on you also said it was not cutting right this could also be a few diffrent things one the chain is dull or the drags on the chain need to be filed down 1/16 pepole forget to do this if they sharpen the chains their selves but most smallengine shops will see that the drags are to high and will file them for you most times the drags need to be filed every 4 to 5 sharpenings on a good quality chain some cheaper chains will also wear quicker also check the oiler on your saw take a pice of cardboard place it uprigth against a tree bench or what ever and rev the saw with the tip pointed towards the board if their is a good amount of oil your ok if its barley any the oiler needs repair or your bar oil is to thick if its to thick dump a little gas or paint thinner in the bar oil never use old motor oil as a bar lube old saws in the 70's could do this but todays chains are more complex and need better lubrication i hope this helps ;)

Gallowglass
11-01-2008, 11:23 PM
Whenever I've had the chain *come off, it has been because I didn't tighten it after I'd cut a few branches or logs. *As soon as I start to use the saw, the chain gets hot and it stretches. *Sometimes I'm too lazy or stupid, or in too big a hurry, and I keep on going instead of stopping and tightening it. *I've got a another big gripe, though, regarding my Husqvarna 55 Rancher. *My wife bought it for me for Christmas a few year back. *(I was suitably grateful.) *Here is the problem - the Operator's Manual says that the needle bearings on the drive sprocket need to be lubricated regularly, just like adding chain bar oil every time I fill the gas tank. *However, there are no instructions as to how do disasssemble the saw to get to the needle bearings. *On *their very unhelpful website, it says that this needs to be done by an authorized service center. *Excuse me, but do they really think that everytime I fill the gas tank and chain bar oil tank I'm going to get in my pick-up and drive to an authorized service center - if I could even find one? *Also, my drive sprocket is showing extreme wear and needs to be replaced. *Same deal. *The manual provides no instructions on the disassembly necessary to replace the drive sprocket, but again says go to an authorized service center. *Either they have a major design flaw requiring authorized service centers to do what should be user service and repairs, or their manual is highly deficient. *Anyone else have similar experience, and if so, what is the solution? *Thanks for taking time to read my reply and rant.
Odie. *::)

Had the same problem with my Rancher.....took it in for said service. A year later, I got the saw back with a 150 dollar repair bill, and it still ain't working right. In the mean time I had to buy another saw just to cut wood for winter. Would of been cheaper in the long run had I bought a top of the line Stihl...that'll teach me to buy at Lowe's :-[

sawyerob
11-02-2008, 03:34 PM
Had the same problem with my Rancher.....took it in for said service. A year later, I got the saw back with a 150 dollar repair bill, and it still ain't working right. In the mean time I had to buy another saw just to cut wood for winter. Would of been cheaper in the long run had I bought a top of the line Stihl...that'll teach me to buy at Lowe's :-[

I switched from Stihl to Husqvarna... Why? because i bought a Stihl and after one year it needed a drive sprocket. No big deal, so i go back to my dealer to get one. He says, "you do realize that saw has an upgrade for the sprocket, don't you?" I said "NO, but what is it?" He says, "well i don't have one in stock, and it will be $100.00!" That was the straw that broke the camels back, and i started replaceing Stihls with Huskys! I just got sick of Stihl pulling chit like that, and also the big hassle to get warr claims taken care of.

Since i've went with Husky, i've been much happier and the 5 Huskys i have, all are giving me excelent service, including a Rancher 55.

I replaced the sprocket on that saw last year, and it's just no big deal. I think the sprocket cost me less than 5 bucks.

I think if you want a saw that's more reliable, you need to buy a "pro" saw to begin with, and it doesn't matter if it's a Stihl or a Husky.

All the cheap homeowner saws i've been around soon turn to junk and just give you fits!

Rob

ozarksnick
11-02-2008, 06:17 PM
Here's what you need. (http://www.gransfors.us/axes.html) ;D ;D ;D

cinok
11-08-2008, 10:56 PM
How do they measure up to snow &neeley

ozarksnick
11-09-2008, 05:45 AM
I'm not sure.

I own a Snow and Neally. I love my axe, but I can't get the head to stay tight to the handle so it can be kind of a pain. And I've tried several times to contact S&N to no avail they do not return messages, phone or email.

I haven't yet tried a Gransfors (they're a good deal more pricey), but I've read a lot of favorable things about them on the internet.