My Mauser

[MadTripper]

I was hoping someone could chime in and help me get some more information on this rifle. *I purchased it from a friend who just said it was an 8mm Mauser. *The ammunition which he gave me with it, I can snap a photo if necessary, have 7,9 some foreign words and 11 1955 on the box. *The casings have stars and 11 55 on them.

I can't really get any good details with the markings on the gun. *My photos aren't spectacular however you can get the jist. *

I have shot it with the original ammuntion however they are corrosive primers so I don't really want to make a habit of it. *I plan on using it for whitetail this year and purchased a box of remington. *I want to make sure the ammo is appropriate for this rifle before I head out to the woods.

Here is a link to the photos:

http://www.madtripper.com/gallery/v/Various/gunshunting/mauser/

Thanks for any input.

Tripper

[Mac_Muz]

I am fairly certain this is a K-98, but it could be a M-48. Either way it shoots 7.92X 57mm a.k.a. 8 mm Mauser.

Why I can't tell is the original stock has been "sporterized".

The filled square is where the sling once went. The filled circle is where a tool to break down the bolt once went.

If the floor plate has little dotted like dents this is a M-48 and a stamped floor plate, looking at the outside and easily seen plate. If not it is a K-98.

Probably this is a after the war take, and to know better, you need to remove the front lyman site base, and see what markings are there.

They might be German marking if you get lucky, but my guess will be either you find yugo, or someother slavic marking to show the gun was taken after the war as a prize of war.

The 11 55 probably means 11th month and 1955.

These would be surplus military rnds.. So-So for hunting, but common hunting rounds won't be hard to get.

I would use these for target practice and not worry much about the fact they can not be reloaded, and or that they are corrosive.. Use windex with ammonia for cleaning, clean well and then if you wish use Hoppy #9 and run a few patches thru it, to be certain the patches are clean.

You should find this gun very accurate, with a near to glass smooth action.

You most definately do not want to dry fire this gun with out a proper snap cap in it.

You may open the bolt and remove it with ease.. With the gun EMPTY to close the bolt, you may decock it on closing the bolt, merely buy holding the trigger back as if you had fired it.

That might be better learned by closing the bolt and cocking it, then opening the bolt, but not removing it..

With the bolt open and all the way back, hold the trigger back and then close the bolt.. This will be de-cocked.

The safety is 3 postions.. fire to the left I believe, straight up , which locks the bolt, and right which leaves the bolt to move back and forth as safe.

There is a similar ammo type and I am not sure what that is called off hand.... On is sometimes considered "J" I think, and the other "JS".. No matter, that gun uses 7.92X 57mm.

[kawalekm]

Hi Tripper
Congratulations on your gun. Yes, it looks like a typical K98, but both shoot the same ammo. The photo of the bolt is especially informative because it shows the existance of the third locking lug near the back of the bolt. This indicates that it is the most modern design that safely holds the most pressure.

Since you have already fired rounds out of the rifle you can simply compare that ammo with your store bought Remingtons. The case should look the same except for the printed markings. Yes, the 11 55 is the manufacture date, and not a caliber designation. The bullet will look different, because lead tips are used for hunting but banned for warfare. However the diameters of the two bullets should look the same. The J or JS/S designation refers to barrel diameter. The earliest 8mm's were made with a bore that was 0.318 inches in diameter (J designation). In 1905 the Germans decided to change bore diameter to 0.323 inches (the S or JS designation). All modern 8mm ammo is made with .323 inch bullets, and it may not be safe to shoot in a gun that has a .318 bore. Most American manufacturers though intentially load their 8mm loads on the "soft side" just in case. I however could check this myself easily with a vernier caliber. Sticking in the muzzle of my Mausers I could see that I had .323 bores. That means I can develop full power handloads with the .323 diameter bullets I have.

[Mac_Muz]

kawalekm, Thanks, you got the part I couldn't find in my feathers and fluff alleged brain.

I wonder if that gun has a date code still? If so it might well be under that ft scope site base.

Another place might be on the left side of the reciever.. (left holding the gun as if you were firing it)

[MadTripper]

Thanks to both of you, lots of great info.

I have been releasing the firing pin as Mac suggested. *I was a GMG in the Navy so I am familiar with handling and maintenance however we certainly didn't have this type of rifle. *

I hadn't seen any dotted dents or the like on the floor plate however perhaps I'm looking at the wrong section.
I did remove the front site base however the markings are so worn, I can't really get a reading. *Perhaps I'll try to pencil shade them tonight and get some better detail.

On the bolt cap, that is the rimmed area right behind the bolt handle, there are some markings including two swastika's. *I tried to clarify these in the following photo although I didn't do a great job:

http://www.madtripper.com/gallery/v/Various/gunshunting/mauser/oct07+021.jpg.html

Other than that, I haven't removed the stock. *Unfortunately, the person who sporterized the stock went heavy on the clearcoat and didn't bother to do it without the receiver in place. *So, I see a lot of junk in places it should not be. *I plan on using it for hunting this year and then perhaps I'll disassemble it to give it some love.

I can tell you I was impressed with its accuracy when I shot it. *The gentleman who sold it only wanted $40 so well worth it in my opinion.

I will also try to snap a shot of the ammo box as well as the new ammo I have purchased. *I would just as soon be safe that my ammo is matching. *I think I may take a micrometer home with me to double check some things as well.

Tripper

[Mac_Muz]

You can mess around all you like, but that gun shoots 7.92X 57mm a.k.a. 8 mm JS Mauser. For chit sure it can't be early with Nazi markings..

Go ahead any way as it will be fun...

The dents I mentioned are plainly there or not, and aso you don't have them. The M- 48 does and you don't have the M- 48 then.

Looking at the bootom of the gun and the outsied of the floor plate is where these dents would be..

So instead you really have a K-98 and with that the floor plate is also a forging, what was machined and not a friggin stamped oput junk part..

Feel good about that....

The stock is likey original, but has been modded to hell and back, to bad.. For 40 bucks so what ?

I have ammo up the wazzo and no gun for it. (all corrosive) I had a buddy, key word had,, who begged mine off me for a song... At the time he was dead broke, but since then he thinks he became somebody and got a lic to do buis. So he thinks he has money and his old freimnd of 20 + years are not the "right friends"

Anyway that's where my K-98 is... to serve as some re-enactment blank shooter, and it was/is a tack driver.

You have no idea how much I'ld like to say wanna sell if for $150.00? But even so this is a poor time for me. If ever you do just really want to sell it I will get that much for it...

I'ld do more if the stock wasn't messed with.

Good originals can be had too, but I think it is ashamed to shoot them. When they have all 216 markings. The Germans didn't mess around marking guns up one bit...

See if you can find the last 4 numbers on most other metal parts scattered over the gun that match the serial number...

Most of the time the nazi marking s are either gone or are there... Yours still has some.. of course many do...

That gun is the base for the 03 Springfield. errrr ah we sorta needed a good gun so we stole Mausers Patent during war time and thats been Springfield ever since LOL....

$40.00 bux grrr Muff ##$#@!! ^&%$!!!!

[Mac_Muz]

sorry been running a chainsaw all day.. my hands are dead...

[MadTripper]

Makes sense to me. Of course I read your post after I brought the caliper home and measured, took the scope off again and took a bunch more photos. Additionally, I have moved all of the mauser photos into one folder for my own selfish intentions. This makes the previous links dead although I may go back and edit them if I get the inclination.

The bullets measured the same diameter so that is a good thing. I also posted the photos so perhaps there is something that sticks out you guys may notice. I wasn't able to get the image from the top of the chamber using a pencil and paper however I did manage to get some clearer photos of it.

http://www.madtripper.com/gallery/v/Various/gunshunting/mauser/

The safety only has two positions and says Mark II. I'm assuming this is an aftermarket part that is needed when a scope is mounted. Just my thought but if it were a standard safety, it wouldn't clear the scope to reach straight up or to the left.

I'm still not sure where it was made. Let me know if you guys come up with anything else.

I'm really not interested in getting rid of it since it is my only large caliber rifle. I have access to a bunch but this is mine. If I ever reconsider, I'll keep you in mind.

Thanks again,

Tripper

[ArmySGT.]

Appears to be a partially sporterized K98

Turned down bolt handle, after market safety, Shortened stock, jeweled bolt, reciver drilled and tapped for scope mounts, and a recoil pad.

Appears the military trigger is still in, and that it needs restocked or a comb riser so you can use the scope properly.

This rifle no longer has any collector value. Feel free to continue sportering it.

[MadTripper]

Appears the military trigger is still in, and that it needs restocked or a comb riser so you can use the scope properly.


I'm not sure what you mean by that. I have shot it and feel comfortable with the way everything sits. Can you further explain if you have time?

Thanks,

Tripper

[kawalekm]

Hi Tripper
Here's a photo of my Swedish Mausers. I bought a pair for 80$ each. I plan on sporterizing both of them. The first one with a long stock for me, and a second smaller one for taking my son hunting with me. But, for now, the two give a good before and after view of the rifles. I was most impressed with the stock. When I first started sanding it down, it looked worse than the top rifle, more or less a fence post. After getting it sanded, the most beautiful walnut grain was reveiled.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/kawalekm/Sporterized_Swedish_Mauser.jpg

I finished the wood in Case's TruOil according to Swenney's instructions in "Gunsmithing Rifles" (DBI Press) and was very pleased with the results. As you can see, both rifles have straight bolts, so I put a peep sight on the first rifle. I plan on cutting and welding the second bolt for scope mounting.

Tripper, it sounds like refinishing your stock would be a good project for you. What you described sounds sloppy, and I'm sure you could do a better job with the action out of the stock. I would suggest sanding it down then staining it a darker walnut before putting on the finish. That way the rifle will have a more classic hunter look to it, without the brigtht glowing raw wood finish.
Good luck,
Michael Forum will resize your picture to 360 pixels (5 inches) wide. Please limit file size to 30K to speed loading of pages. Delete all text and spaces between tags before inserting picture URL.

[Mac_Muz]

You have the correct hunting ammo.. I recall that was a concern..

I can't see the markings well at all.. Partly my system and being on juno, and partly the pics.

To me it doesn't look much like euro markings and more like chinese, which I have idea about, it they are....?

"restocked or a comb riser "means that the large ring action which this is compared to swedish mausers with small ring actions tends to hold a scope to high.

I am in big reply mode and can't see the posters name this way.

He is saying there is no history to be lost here, that if ever there was, there is no more, so you may mess and tinker with out loosing 2 cents.

If this were all original as made in WW-2 times there could be far more collector value. But there isn't, and still you have a fine gun, as good as they get to hunting.

So restocked or a comb riser means you have the choice to restock the gun with any stock you like be it wood or plastic. A Montecarlo stock has the comb rise built in.

You could padd the comb up with anything from rags to a leather pad you make with a belt buckel or two if you so desired, and for all I know buy something factory made.

The main idea is to get the eye in line with the scope.

You might like it the way it is.. I believe the scope is too high myself, so I agree yopu should address the problem even if you don't think it is a problem.

I think about 20 rounds will prove that.

Some people go bonkers looking up every detail of every marking, and then want the gun to be the exact way it was when it was new.

I am not one of those unless I get a gun that hasn't been sporterized so much as this, and i would be content to have an all forged gun that shoots well.

Many of these were sporterized soon after the war. Many more were taken as prizes of wa by other countires. Many of those were re-marked and sold again to more countries. I think this one has been through a number of places and changes that occured as the gun changed hands.

Most metal parts should have the same last 4 numbers in the serial number, and if not then that just proves the gun was built from pieces, other than the orginal serial numbered pieces...

That means only that the gun changed hands and was "improved" to be a sporting gun...

If you are interested in seeing the gun as it was run a search on K-98.

Today you can commonly come by stock condition guns which range in price depending on what markings are on them and if they have leather ammo pouches, bayonettes with the same serail number and the like.

Like anything collectable it needs to be near mint in condition and have all the right marks in the right places.

Today there is enough interest that there are a good number of faked guns out there. These are good guns, and made back then of real parts, but have had codes and numberings made to appear from places they were not made and for dates where the gun never was, mostly with rare Nazi markings.. Some are a bit too good.

[MadTripper]

I certainly am more interested in functionality. If it was or is a collectors item, oh well. I plan on using it for my needs and am not concerned with monetary value. I am still interested in its history but as stated, thats a tough battle given different numbers and so on. So...this topic has led me to look at aftermarket stocks and the feasiblity of building my own. Again, I don't plan on doing much with it until after whitetail season which is a few weeks away here in Pa.

I'm trying to find some sites on building your own gunstocks. Right now I'm most curious about the choice of wood. It seems walnut is very popluar however I am also interested in finding out if maple, locust, hickory, or even cherry would work as well. We have plenty of those woods around my area so getting some would not be hard. I also like the look and feel of varmit style stocks with the thumbholes. Just something to ponder.

I will try and put some rounds down range this weekend and see how I feel about the scope position. I have a larger frame at 6'3" so maybe that is the reason it felt fine to me although like it was mentioned, perhaps 20 rounds will prove differently.

So again, thanks for all the great info and if I find anything out specific, I'll post it. I think I will keep my eyes and ears out for more of these types of rifles because of the fun I have had learning so far. I was more of a M-14 guy in the service where I maintained 40 of them (with selector switches) along with 10 M-60's, 5 50 Cal's, 12 '45s, (later 9mm's), 2 m79's, 12 Mossberg 500's and two 25 MM's.

I'll keep you posted and perhaps if I manage to create my own or just refinish the current stock, it will make a nice how to for the site.

Tripper

Oh yeah, any info on doing your own stocks would be great, I can start a new post as needed.

[Mac_Muz]

I answered the other post first and now see you can access cherry which is also excellent.. You listed hicory here and i would refrain from that due to the open pores in this wood.. Of course you still have the option to fill them..

There is no value other than you have forged parts, and these worked well for years and are better than current manufactor in my opinion.

If I were you I would allow your personal tastes to show in any stock you make.

With this type of gun you will want that lug built into the stock, which is there to assist keeping the stock in one piece.

(metal thing in the fore arm)

Since you seem to be "handy" you can make a pad from leather and fill it with a harder foam filler for your cheek to rest on. This type of gun has some recoil, and you will want a good solid anchor to lock your cheek to when you site thru that scope.

Due to the way this type of gun is made with the large rings action, just about anyone who knows guns thinks the scope ends up mounted to high.

During WW-2 this gun was used by German snipers to great effect, but they had a different scope mounted very fa forward from what you have now.

That set up lowered the scope which was dismounted often, and installed just before using it.

OH! I almost forgot.. When you seek woods, try and have a pattern on hand. Select wood from very low on the tree, and try to select wood with a curve where the wrist on the stock curves to become the pistol grip area and the butt stock. A Butt Pad will also be welcome so you might select a bit shorter stock wood at the butt end by as much as 2 inches, considering you are a big man in size..

I don't like recoil much, and in that gun with 20 mil surplus rounds sent down range my day is done.. I can double that with a rubber one size fits all butt pad...

[MadTripper]

Thanks again for the help and info. Hopefully, I'll do well hunting and toss some meat in the freezer. After that, I'll have a while to put some of the advice to use.

Tripper

[Mac_Muz]

I will do wood in the new thread.. just sayin so...

[Pitdog]

Tripper, you have a full blown 98. No Yugo 48/24 about that piece, which if you don't know, is good. Someone has done some work to it, and if you want a truck type gun then you got it. However there is some potential there for making a real nice piece there. If you have any questions or need any parts let me know, I am known at school as the 'Mauser King'.

[MadTripper]

I may take you up on that in the near future. Buck opens up on the 26th so I'll need to keep it in one piece for a few more weeks.

Tripper

[ArmySGT.]

I'm not sure what you mean by that. I have shot it and feel comfortable with the way everything sits. Can you further explain if you have time?

Thanks,

Tripper

It appears to have the original Military trigger and that has not been swapped for a more adjustable aftermarket.

The buttstock tapers down and away. You will probably lift your head to look through the scope. This lack of a cheek weld makes precision shooting difficult. Having the gun restocked so the comb is higher will prevent this or you can add a comb riser. a sort of cheek pad that raises to combline to position the shooters eye directly behind the scope.

[ArmySGT.]

Tripper, you have a full blown 98. No Yugo 48/24 about that piece, which if you don't know, is good. Someone has done some work to it, and if you want a truck type gun then you got it. However there is some potential there for making a real nice piece there. If you have any questions or need any parts let me know, I am known at school as the 'Mauser King'.


but, but, but, its Tishamingo........... LOL

[Pitdog]

NOT!

However I did meet the head of their program last Shot Show, nice fellow, very knowledgable. Oklahoman Farm Type all the way though, NO BS Midwesterner.

Sarge, you making it to this SShow since it is only a few hours away?

[ArmySGT.]

I would like too. I am counting my pennies to see if I can afford another semester. This is my last semester and classes end December 15th. I kinda want to stick around and take the M1911A1 class, CNC machining, and down load Speedy Gonzalez's brain. (newest instructor).

[DaNgEr_KiTtY]

I use my my Mauser as a leaf blower :)

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/stevebrotzman/Grass-DK-Cabin/?action=view&current=Oct-Cabin042.flv

[Pitdog]

I JUST finished and brought home my 1911 I built this semester. I LOVE it. Kart Barrel, MGW bushing, Wilson sights, trigger, hammer, sear, beavertail on a Rock Island Mil Spec. Finished it with Brownell's Teflon-moly bake on over parking.
Will send you the link to my website with pictures of it under 'Gunsmithing Projects' as soon as I get it published.
Got a job yet?

[ArmySGT.]

Got a job yet?

I was looking at HS Precision. Its not gun building though. Dave Kiff from Pacific Tool offered to help me get my resume around Oregon should I choose to go back there.

So far I have been unimpressed with the big box stores Gunny job offers. Pay is ok, benefits are so so, but, I am not keen on Gander or Cabelas. Two guys from last semester are working for Les Bauer at his new shop.


So HA HA HA the answer is no.

[Pitdog]

Didn't he move to Iowa? Pays pretty decent I hear.

[Pathfinder]

Hi Tripper
Here's a photo of my Swedish Mausers. *I bought a pair for 80$ each. *I plan on sporterizing both of them. *The first one with a long stock for me, and a second smaller one for taking my son hunting with me. *But, for now, the two give a good before and after view of the rifles. *I was most impressed with the stock. *When I first started sanding it down, it looked worse than the top rifle, more or less a fence post. *After getting it sanded, the most beautiful walnut grain was reveiled.

I guess talking you out of that long Swede would be out of the question eh?

[kawalekm]

Sorry, Father and Son hunting trips have priority.