View Full Version : Using a tractor to put in T-posts
Deberosa
11-28-2007, 01:01 PM
OK, I am trying to imagine a way to do this because we have lots of posts to put in. Either T-posts or if we could drive in the wood posts with pointed ends, that would be good too.
How would you do that with a tractor?
AlchemyAcres
11-28-2007, 01:19 PM
What's the ground like out there?
A spring loaded hand driver is the best way to put in t-posts...
With a tractor you risk ruining a lot of 'em, especially if it's rocky.
~Martin
Deberosa
11-28-2007, 01:30 PM
What's the ground like out there?
A spring loaded hand driver is the best way to put in t-posts...
With a tractor you risk ruining a lot of 'em, especially if it's rocky.
~Martin
The ground here is soggy! With few rocks. We use one of those pipes with a closed end and handles but after quite a few of those, that's the end of it for this old lady! ;-) What is a spring loaded hand driver? What about putting in those wood posts with the points on them, they are the same price as T-posts out here.
AlchemyAcres
11-28-2007, 01:48 PM
The spring loaded driver is basically a pipe with the closed end and handles...but with a spring up in side...makes driving a lot easier.
The wood posts of any great diameter require a driver such as the Shaver...but I have heard of folks pushing them in with a loader...I just can't imagine that working well...not around here anyway...
Alternately...you could ues an auger ...but that's a lota work too!!!!!
Are you talking permanent...or semi-permanent fence?
If I were looking for an easy permanent or semi-permanent (would easily be permanent for cattle) fence that's just about the easiest darn fence there is to install.....I'd look to Spider fence!
There's rundown on this page......
http://www.kencove.com/add.htm
~Martin :)
Deberosa
11-28-2007, 01:57 PM
The spring loaded driver is basically a pipe with the closed end and handles...but with a spring up in side...makes driving a lot easier.
The wood posts of any great diameter require a driver such as the Shaver...but I have heard of folks pushing them in with a loader...I just can't imagine that working well...not around here anyway...
Alternately...you could ues an auger ...but that's a lota work too!!!!!
Are you talking permanent...or semi-permanent fence?
If I were looking for an easy permanent or semi-permanent (would easily be permanent for cattle) *fence that's just about the easiest darn fence there is to install.....I'd look to Spider fence!
There's rundown on this page......
http://www.kencove.com/add.htm
~Martin :)
Ah yes - that's similar to kiwi fence which I've seen for cattle around here. *MOst of the fence I want to put in is for chickens - so welded wire works best for me. *I want a perimeter fence that will not only keep my dog completely in but also keep other dogs and coyotes out so field fencing or welded wire again.
Some cross fencing I may be able to do with electric alone once I have a really good perimeter. *It's much better the cow escapes to my garden than escapes to the road and causes a wreck! *I also want to be able to put pigs in that enclosure so again, some smaller gaps are in order. *I have a small fortune already in fencing around here but to make the best use of the animals I've got to do it that way! *However sounds like I need to put a spring in my post pounder!
As for the wood posts, Kurt did a few by getting on a step stool and using a sledge hammer. That is not so simple or quick though. The ground is not the problem around here - especially this time of year.
MadTripper
11-29-2007, 12:03 AM
My neighbors have a post pounder that is on the front of their skid steer. No need to sharpen the posts and they can pound a 16 foot post in 8 feet as long as you don't hit bedrock. They are helping me with my fencing needs while I'm providing the locust posts I cut from our land. They will get treated posts as they install high tensile fencing for a living however I prefer not to have treated products near my garden or animals.
Additionally, I know a friend of mine has a similar attachment that mounts on a three-point hitch and uses the hydraulic attachment on a tractor. They always sharpened the posts first and I'm not sure how large a post it could handle. If your tractor could handle one, maybe there is something in the area or available for rent.
Here is a link to something similar for the tractor however appears to be larger than I remember:
http://www.wikco.com/fencepost.html
Tripper
I use the bucket on my loader...
I carry everything i need to the field in the bucket and then have someone spot the post and hold it, untill it's started straight.
Then they step away, and i use down pressure from my loader bucket to pushe them right in...
If your tractor is too light in the front end to push them in, load the bucket with dirt to make it heavier...
This can be DANGEROUS, so be carefull!!!!
Make sure NO ONE HAS THERE HAND on top of the post!!!
Make sure they stand away when your pushing them into the ground!!!
As for setting pointed post....
Use an "undersized" auger and bore the hole.... Then push the post into the hole with the loader bucket!! That way there's NO BACKFILLING and you have a tight post every time!
For instance, 9" auger.... 12" post...
DM
Deberosa
11-29-2007, 01:11 PM
Ok, I may try that with a T-post, maybe rig something up that can old them - maybe with the post pounder I have. Would like to be able to do it with only one person - could just go right down the line and put them in, but then maybe more work than just pounding them!
I like the wood post idea! An auger must be my next attachment. I have so many holes to drill around here and that manual post hole digger is another exhausting tool even in these soft soils. Plus they aren't tight when it's done.
Hey Deb,
I bought a cheapo auger and it never worked well for me... It didn't like to start in a little "tougher" ground or sod, and then if it landed on a rock it just wouldn't go by it... Also it sheared quite a few shear pins and that's a PITA!! Once i saw how my brothers Bush Hog brand auger worked, i HATED mine even worse, so i sold it...
Soon after i bought my brothers from him, and it's a good auger!
I'm not alone on this, i've read many times on line from "other owners" saying the same thing... Unless you have sand, the cheapest auger worth buying is the one from Bush Hog...
You may as well get a tool that will last the rest of your life the first time around!
DM
Post hole digger/augers don't work all that when in marginal soil without a down pressure kit installed. The biggest problem is that there is NO reverse on the pto. ;D The auger can hopelessy burry itself very nicely in the time it takes to shut the pto off.
Tamping the dirt back around the post once in the hole very time consuming and adding concrete can be expensive.
After weighing my options, I went with a local guy who used a Shaver hydraulic post driver. He did the entire 5 wire hign tensile electrified fence including all supplies for about $2.25 per foot (3 of the 5 wires being electrified and pressure treated wood posts every 35 ft.)
If you just have someone come out and drive all of the posts, you can set the corner and brace posts and run the wire and gates yourself which should bring the price down considerably. If you just want to go straight barbed wire, you can have someone drive the corner and brace posts and you can drive the T posts, gates, and string the wire. You can also have a wood post driven every 50 to 75 ft. and T posts every 10 in between. Lot of different ways you can work the posts to save some money and your back.
Deberosa
11-30-2007, 01:54 PM
Good to know about that issue with post hole diggers, I could imagine me burying it the first try. It's hard enough getting ground rods back out of the ground, the moisture holds onto them.
As for having someone come in, it's not cost effective in my situation. I probably don't have a straight 100 ft run anywhere. My property is 420 by 420 and much of it is already in use. Plus my fence will be winding it's way among stumps and brush and trees, it's difficult to get a straight run. It's all almost flat thought so thats a good thing.
We went to visit some people who have Katadin sheep - they have a large farm on a lake. They did all of their fencing over the years in cattle panels and it's nice too. Maybe for the money I would pay someone to dig posts or the money for a post hole auger, I could simply invest in the cattle panels and have a solid fence that should last a long time... Too many choices!!!
Good to know about that issue with post hole diggers, I could imagine me burying it the first try. It's hard enough getting ground rods back out of the ground, the moisture holds onto them.
When i drill holes, i run the auger at "fast idle" speed, and i only lower the 3 point all the way until it starts drilling good... After that i lower it a bit, and wait for it to catch up... Then lower it a bit more... ect... I even lift it once in a while to let it clear itself..
That way it can't catch a root or something and get stuck....
DM
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