OAL question for a newbie reloader

[SamS]

Ok I have been given a lee single stage press with about everything I need to start reloading along with a couple of manuals, bullets, powder, brass and primers. I have the best brother in law. Anyway I have been told that I need to take into account the type and maker of the bullet ie: FMJ, JHP and weight for my OAL. Is this true?
I will be loading .45acp using tumbled brass, Rainier Ballistics 230 grain JHP, Bullseye powder and winchester or remington primers. I don't remember which brand the primers are. I am going to watch an experienced loader or have one with me at first but would really like to know if the OAL thing is true.


Thanks

SamS

[hunter63]

OAL (over all length) is listed in you manual for each load, as well as other dimensions.

If you will be shooting .45apc in an auto loader, it will be important for feeding from the mag, more so than say a 30-06.
Your reference refers to bullet configuration, you may have to set your die differently for each type to maintain OAL.

You need a calipers or gage for this number.

[kawalekm]

Hello Sam

There are two ways to get a number for OAL, either take it out of the reloading manual for your particular bullet, or determine it yourself with your particular gun barrel. Every bullet will be slightly different, and the problem using a generic bullet like a Rainier is that I don't think they publish their own loading data. So, you can take data from one of the big makers. My Speer manual lists an OAL of 1.230" for THEIR 230 grain hollowpoint, while Hornady lists THEIR hollowpoint at 1.200". So, you're likely to get fairly good results by putting your Rainier bullet at somewhere between 1.200 and 1.230".

The second way to determine OAL, optimal for YOUR barrel is to take the barrel out of the pistol and use it like a headspacing gauge. Is your pistol a 1911 clone? If so, you drop a dummy cartridge into the chamber and observe where the back of the case lines up with the back of the chamber. Here's what I did for my 1911. I took a FIRED brass case that I inserted a new bullet into. The fired case would allow the bullet to slide in and out because it hasn't been sized yet. Insert the bullet/case into the chamber so that the bullet bumps up against the rifling and pushes the bullet back deeper into the case. Gently pull the case/bullet back out without disturbing it's position and measure it's OAL. Repeat this enough times that you are sure you are getting an accurate number. This measurement is where the bullet hits the rifling.

You want your loaded cartridge OAL to be several thousandths LESS than that number, so the bullet has a running start before it starts to engrave on the rifling. Subtract between 5 and 10 thousands from your number so that you're sure that your bullet is clear of the rifling and then start your load testing.

Speer's starting load for their 230 grain bullet is 4.5 grains, with a maximum of 5.0 listed. Use their starting load with your empiricly determined OAL and start your load development. Shoot your test loads at paper targets from a bench rest and pick that load that gives you the best accuracy.

Good luck and hope to hear more from you,
Michael

[kawalekm]

Had to add a P.S. Sam

Forget to mention a few more important details about bullet seating. The OAL will also effect how your cartridges fit in the magazine, and also how they'll feed into the chamber.

When starting to reload for the .40S&W I used the "seat off the rifling" technique I described above. Turns out that my cartridges were too long to fit into the magazine. I ended up making them just enough shorter to fit properly.

When I started reloading the .45 in my 1911, I was casting my own lead 200 grain SWCs. Found that cartridges would jam on the feed-ramp every other shot. Reading in the literature I found that the published OAL was too short and I had to set that bullet out all the way to the rifling to make it feed properly. I had to reduce the gunpowder slightly to compensate for bullets sitting on the rifling. Because the bullets are wedged up against it, the beginning of the rifling prevents the bullets from accelerating as easily, raising pressure. Had to subsequently reduce the powder charge by half a grain to compensate. That load though was powerful and quite accurate as a result.
Good luck again,
Michael

[SamS]

Thank you both for the info. My pistol is a Springfield Armory 1911a1 mil-spec full size Michael so I guess it's a clone? Don't know. I need to get a dial caliper so I can start reloading like Hunter63 said and other than that all I need is a tumbler which I am looking for a hand crank model. Any recommendations on that?

Thanks again

SamS

[kawalekm]

Calipers are a must have for me. Check out www.midwayusa.com. They usually have a caliper on sale for around 20-25$. I would not bother getting a tumbler. I haven't tumbled brass for at least 15 years now. I wash my brass in water/vinegar/detergent and it comes out shiny clean. Do you have carbide dies? Washing your brass and sizing with carbine dies are the two single greatest time/effort savers in reloading I can think of.
Michael

[hunter63]

I agree with kawalekm, both on the tumbler and the carbide dies.
The only time I use a tumbler is on old very tarnished brass, mostly so as to get a better look for cracks and such.

I still use lube even with carbide dies, even though I have been told you don't need it, habit I guess, just don't use too much as with some cases it can "ripple" the brass.
I also like the "full length sizer die" on straight cases and "factory crimp dies" on bottle neck cases.

As you are just starting out, I wouldn't get too involved with OAL, other than keeping to manual spec or very slightly less.
You will have plenty of time to "fine tune" your loads after you get the loading process down.

I would, however, try a few rounds after reloading, in magazine and cycling the action. Make any necessary adjustments, BEFORE you go ahead and load up a couple of hundred rounds, only to find out they don't fit.( Don't ask me how I know this)