Survive the Small Stuff First

[BonnyLake]

Any big survival situation would handicap us all, it's the small daily things that we must survive that will cut off our hands. I found out the hard way that I need a million more "small skills" to make it happen. This is just a start - please add to this list so I won't loose my hands :(

TOOLS ~
I need to know the different types of wrenches and what they are used for

Same with screwdrivers, hammers

I need to know repair terminology so I can fix something or look for the parts

I need to know metric conversions and I need to know when it needs a conventional or metric tool

I need to print manuals of everything I own NOW if I don't have them

I need to know how to fix things even when the manual says "contact local service center"

..... also - any type of "saying" will help me so much ~~~~ like "righty tighty lefty losey" has already kept me sane !!

[patience]

I've fixed things most of my life, and ran a commercial repair shop for the past 8 years. (Retired last month.) I can fix most metal, plastic, leather, rubber and wood parts of farm, lawn and garden, and home equipment. Have a machine shop, a wood shop, sheet metal shop (made some body parts for antique cars), and cando some electrical work.


You are asking for a LOT of capability. Too many parts of new stuff are cast metal or molded plastic that defy repairs. In most cases, it will make more sense to have a spare unit for any given purpose than to try to repair certain critical parts. Unfortunately, we live in a throwaway society. :( You CAN do a lot of repairs to common household stuff, but most of them will be of a temporary nature, using epoxy glues, tapes, wire, and fasteners of all sorts. However, one tried and true backwoods wayof dealing with this is to have a spare used item handy to "cannabalize"for parts!

I'd suggest that you look hard at what you own that is really indispensable, and decide what can go wrong with it. Can you stock spare parts for it now? What are the common wear parts that will need replaced? Start taking apart those things that will need parts replaced, and learn how to to do that. The tools required will become obvious as the needs for them arise.

There have been encyclopedias written on this subject that did not cover it in any really useful detail. It is mostly a matter of rollup your sleeves and get busy. For basic mechanics, you could probably find a vocational course in small engine repairs, or auto maitenance.

[NCLee]

Bonny, the best advice that I can offer is to pick a project and master it to the extent you can. During the course of that, you'll acquire the tools, knowledge and hands-on experience. Then pick another project. And, another one after those two.

You can have several projects going on at one time. If you don't have the tool to finish "A", you can work on "B", until you get that tool.

Some examples:

Learn to wire a lamp. It'll introduce you to working with electrical topics. You'll acquire the tools needed to wire that lamp. The book that you buy that includes the how-to for doing the lamp will have info for other electrical projects.

Replace a faucet. Same thing. You'll acquire the tools needed for that job. When you're done, you'll know how to use them. And, they'll be in your tool box when the next job is to be done.

Build a wooden storage box. You'll purchase more tools that weren't needed for the electrical and plumbing projects. You'll add to your collection of basic how-to reference books.

Make a quilt for a doll bed. With this small project you'll again acquire the items needed, how-to knowledge and hands on experience.

Make a pot of "cowboy coffee" in the backyard. That'll get you started on another whole avenue of becoming self-reliant. Same as with the other items, you have your starting point to build upon.

Grow something (if you've never gardened before). Same premise.

On another note: Take a hard look at what you own that can't be fixed if it breaks. Is there an earlier version that could be repaired by the owner? This can take many forms. For example, if you have an electric carving knife that can easily be replaced with an Old Hickory Butcher knife.

Food processor can be replaced with a box grater and several other things that people used BEFORE this kitchen gadget was produced.

Electronic chips are being installed into almost everything these days. Digital displays are on everything from crockpots to .... well, you name it. A first generation crockpot (1970's-1980's) isn't subject to the same failure problems as today's whiz-bang, bells and whistles, versions. We got 2 of those early ones for Christmas, the 1st year they hit the market big time. Both are still going strong.

Mentioned this because you may simply want to back up in time and acquire the things that are must-haves that are much easier to repair. When you get it, make sure you have what's needed to repair it. That butcher knife mentioned earlier will need a sharpening stone.

Once you learn to sharpen that knife, you'll be all set to sharpen other things that'll need that repair in the future.

Pick a project and get started! :)

FWIW, that's the way I've learned most of what I know today. That's how I grew my workshop. One project at a time.

Hope this helps.
Lee

[CapeCMom]

IMO there is nothing wrong with being a jack of all trades but master of none.
Don't burden yourself with "the right tool" concept. You will NEVER have all of the tools unless you're Norm Abrams. Use what works to get the job done-don't have the right screwdriver? Use a wrench. Learn creativity and getting by with what works.Don't overwhelm yourself with a knowing how to do a huge job right away. Sit back with a pen and paper and try to figure it out one step at a time "If I do this then that will happen, and if that part is right I can go on to do the next part"
Don't put so much pressure on yourself to know everything, get some how- to books to keep aside. Watch some DIY shows on the weekends if you have those channels.
We all have enough to stress out about these days. Just do the best you can.

[Dawgus]

There are thousands of do it yourself books and websites to choose from. Check thrift stores for books and learn simple, basic repairs. Tackle something small and take on bigger projects as your skills improve.
While you don't need every tool for every job, you do need basic but specific tools for some things. Using the wrong tool for a job could leave you with a broken tool and a more broken project. (my wife's habit of a paring knife for a screwdriver is a perfect example. She ends up with a broken knife tip and a stripped screw head) You don't have to have super quality tools for that occasional repair. Get a basic set of tools like Stanley or Craftsman. Avoid cheap tools like some from harbor freight. Sure, they're less expensive, but they don't last. The money spent on 2-3 of the same tool there could have bought one better quality tool at Sears or a Stanley kit from K-Mart.
While I have a garage full of tools, there isn't much that I can't do with basic screwdrivers, hammer, a crescent wrench, and a pair of channel locks.

[CountryGuy]

I agree with Dawgus, buy a decent set of tools. I prefer Craftsman as most all of their hand tools have lifetime replacement if they break. I'll be honest I've bought grab bags at auctions with broken Craftsman wrenches or sockets and took them in and got brand new replacements. Now is a good time of year as on Black Friday they usually have a nice size set for typically around $150 that will get you a good mix of different drive sizes and both imperial and metric. Also usually have special buys on sets of screwdrivers, pliers, crescent wrenches, etc... Just be sure it says Craftsman and not just Sears or that Evo brand. Lowe's has a Husky brand I think is supposed to have warranties too but I think some of their tools look to be cheap. I used to work at Sears in High School so I know they have a no questions warranty. I saw people bring in 3/4 drives with badly bent handles that you knew someone had a cheater pipe on and we'd hand them another one. Also if you do find small sets might be good to have a few to stash in places like your car. or even to have as spares for barter on down the road.

Get yourself at least on good Estwig hammer, again not cheap but has great balance and will outlast you. It has a steel handle with either a rubber or leather grip so no need to worry about replacing a broken handle down the road. Think they also have a lifetime warranty in case you do figure out a way to kill it.

Again as Dawg mentions, check out places like Goodwill and other thrift and book stores. Web is good but then that requires you to print everything out. Books are already printed and sturdier than printer paper. A lot of times I see those Black & Decker, Time Life, Better Home and Gardens book series and I also sometimes see newer ones by Lowe' and Home Depot. Seems like most pass them by and don't want them (except for folks like us). I've seen them for anywhere from a $1 to as little as $.10 or even free a few times for older or damaged ones. Typically they'll have a book on wiring another on plumbing, another on building, etc... other times you can find small engine repair etc... good reading. Garage sales are great for these also, I once got an entire set like 10 books in like new shape for like $2 or $3.

Then like NC says go practice... Better to figure it out now rather than later when time and materials might be hard to come by. Build yourself a new storage shelf or run wire and install a switch and light fixture in your garage on the weekend. Like most things, these skills have an expiration on them to so once you learn them keep practicing.

[KarenBC]

If you can, avoid using flat head screws, often the screw driver will slip - and you can end up with a nasty ouch on your index fingers. I much prefer Robertson (square) or Philips (star) screws.
You can never have to many sizes and types of things like screws, hinges, nails and small hardware on hand. Whenever I see it at garage sales I pick it up - this stuff is really dear at full price.
I've been collecting small jars and building shelves out of boards on spare wall space in the workshop. If the bits & pieces had a label, sometimes I'll tape that on the bottle or stick it inside. Doesn't really matter to me what the proper name of a screw or nail is - I don'd need to know it's a #8 - 1" screw - I just need to know it will do the job.

I've been collecting books for a homestead library - it sure hasn't taken long to amass a fairly good sized collection.

Sometimes I've found posters inside magazines that show the different types of hammers, etc..I like to pull those out and tack'em on the wall the workshop. I don't really need to know all the names of the different hammers, but it doesn't hurt to have the knowledge either.

[CountryGuy]

Another good used book to add to your library is the Machinery Handbook or the Guide. It is full of all kinds of info on things like thread call outs, material strength info for materials, bolts & screws; cutting speeds for metal, etc... can become very valuable if you need to design something structural.

Also full of all kinds of tables, conversions etc... Not really a beginner thing but I see older editions around a lot of times for a few bucks vs. like 70 to 100 for the latest one.

I've said it before and will say it again, look at military training manuals. I'd especially recommend the Navy (NAVEDTRA) manuals for the Seabee ratings - Engineering Aid(EA), Builder(BU), Utilityman(UT), Construction Electrician(CE), Steel Worker (SW), Construction Mechanic(CM), Equipment Operator(EO). A very good one for you since you mention wanting to learn about tools is also NAVEDTRA 14256 Tools & their Uses. Some of these are multi volumes and there are increasing levels for Petty Officer 3, 2, and 1 and some others.

In regards to this thread I think these are great to teach you a lot of the basic and mid level skills you might want or need. Hey, if it works for 18yo kids it should work for a common sense adult.

[jhnpldng]

Electronic chips are being installed into almost everything these days. Digital displays are on everything from crockpots to .... well, you name it. A first generation crockpot (1970's-1980's) isn't subject to the same failure problems as today's whiz-bang, bells and whistles, versions. We got 2 of those early ones for Christmas, the 1st year they hit the market big time. Both are still going strong.

Mentioned this because you may simply want to back up in time and acquire the things that are must-haves that are much easier to repair. When you get it, make sure you have what's needed to repair it.

Ditto on that one. We rent and the landlords evidently love digital read outs. Stove and 5 window units and all are screwy now. Broiler comes on when it feels like it. Only when the oven is on but we've ruined a lot of things that were supposed to cook at say 350 but went into broiler mode. We learned that by setting the oven timer the broiler won't come on.

I recently bought a pair of sears garden tractors made in 1969 and 70. They still run and cut grass after 40 years. They are finally getting ready for an overhaul.

Older is way better but then you either need to find old refurbished or do it yourself. Lots of more standard parts on them like bearings that measure 2" (easily obtainable and cheap) instead of 2.0213 etc.

That might be a good way for you to learn. Buy older things that need to be and can be rebuilt. That way you're not taking something you use everyday out of service for a while. Start with simpler items. Older can also mean obsolete so be careful with that.

All new cars are generally metric and most other new products too.

Tools. Need quality tools and they're getting harder to find. From high to low in quality and price would be, Snap-On, SK, Mac, Napa, Craftsman, Klien, Gearwrench, Kobalt, Ace Hardware, Stanley. I'm sure there's many more I missed and some of those are specialty like Klien electrical, Stanley mostly carpenter and the rest generally mechanic tools. If you find any of the first three cheap at a yard sale get them. Craftsman is going downhill. I think they're actually made in china now. Haven't bought new craftsman lately so can't comment on the quality though a few years back I exchanged a ratchet and the replacement they gave me is not as good as the one that came from DD. :(

Wrenches. The different types are shown here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench
If you get a haynes auto repair manual they may call a wrench a spanner. (written in UK) Most other English speaking countries don't call it a wrench. It's a spanner. In USA we call certain types of wrenches spanners as you'll see on the wiki page. (haynes might say wrench these days)

Sizes are pretty self explanatory. English sizes aka stanard aka SAE are in fractions and a common start is 1/4" on up. They do go smaller but it's rare to need one. Metric starts around 4mm. Some will cross over. 5/16" to 8mm, 7/16" to 11 mm, 5/8" to 16mm. There's others that can swap but they're not all an exact fit though so if you're unsure whether something is metric or SAE then try both and use the one that fits tightest but don't assume it means what you're working on is one or the other. IE, 14mm is a tight fit on some 9/16" but won't go on some.
7, 9, 12, 15, 18mm have no SAE crossover.
Conversion that goes with that. (Inches to mm) = (Inches x 25.4)
(mm to inches) = (mm divide 25.4)

80s cars can be a mix of SAE and metric, especially GM. All Euro and Jap cars are metric of course. Pre 80 cars are SAE. Not sure of the exact year.

FYI, SAE = Standards of Automotive Engineers

You could collect tools individually or get a 100 pc set on sale and add the odd stuff individually as needed. Most auto parts stores sell decent quality wrenches, sockets and ratchets but they can also carry junk. If you can get someone locally who knows tools to help pick them out it might be best. Craftsman screwdrivers have always been my favorite. Wrenches too. Combination wrenches are the most common. both ends are the same size but one is open end and one is box.

[patience]

I hesitate to comment here, since I have a tool collection that would make enough ballast for an ocean liner, but I remember a few things from my beginner days.

-Avoid multi-purpose tools like the plague. (hammer/plier/screwdriver all in one) Generally pretty useless. Instead, get a good quality tool of each kind.
-GOOD quality, not the absolute best quality, I think is far better value for the money. The cheapest tools are about useless, since they break, or simply don't work. Most auto parts stores sell reasonably priced tools, usually imports, of decent quality. Make sure they are guaranteed. I even have some tools from Harbor Freight, and while I wouldn't bet my life on them, they do useful work for me in most cases. Some are straight up junk! You are on yer own there....
-Collect some things other than mechanics tools, too. Like dental picks, for digging into tiny places, pulling out O-rings, etc. Also, get a cheap set of screwdrivers to modify for a given purpose: file or grind the ends and maybe bend them in a vise to suit what you need, such as a small scraper, or a prying tool. Some castoff kitchen stuff is handy, too. Funnels, large spoons, a turkey baster for sucking up fluids--let your imagination guide you here.
-Designate a spot to keep your tools, and ALWAYS put them away there! If you can't find it, you don't have it.
-You need a workplace. Some spot where it doesn't matter if you spill oil on the floor (kitty litter will soak it up), and a bench that is STURDY. I don't care for benches nailed to the wall of the garage. They transmit sound into the house, and severely limit your use of it, being against a wall. I like a 300 lb. bench in the middle of the floor with a 50 lb. vise on it. A rickety old dinette table ain't goin' to get it here. An old butcher block, has possibilities. Make sure you can beat on it with the biggest hammer you own and not hurt the bench.
-Cheap vises let you down when the going gets tough, and that is when you need it the most! I would not buy a used one, since I will wear it out soon enough myself, but YMMV. Better to have an old, but really heavy vise than a new cheapie for the same money. If it wasn't made in the US or Germany, I don't want it, but if you buy the biggest, heaviest import you can find, it sure beats nothing.
-Buy 3 top quality files, and learn how to use them: a 12" flat bastard cut, a 6" triangular, and an 8" or 10" half-round fine cut (not a rasp with big teeth). Files only cut going forward. Drag it backward ONCE, and you dull the teeth. The teeth are precision cutting tools, so don't toss it in a drawer with other tools that bang into the teeth and chip them. They want their own drawer lined with greasy cardboard to prevent rusting. Keep the teeth clean, with a stiff brush, and a piec of thin brass to dig out stuck bits. These will last for years, if you take care of them.
-Buy a sharpening stone and learn to use it. Look online for instructions with pictures. An 8" long x 2" wide stone with fine on one side and coarse grit on the other will do most of what you need. After you learn how it works, you may want a good Arkansas stone, too.
-Sharp tools are a pleasure to use. Dull ones will get you hurt--it takes too much force to do the work and you lose control, often ending in serious injury. Keep BOTH hands and all other body parts behind the cutting edge! Doesn't matter if you slip and hit a toolbox, but if you shove a chisel into youself--aah, you don't want to go there. I have scars to prove this. Learn from my mistakes, and be safe.

[cuppajoe]

Bad thing is that we were raised in a throw away society. My mom the Queen of pre-recycling era, grew up in the depression, thus nothing was wasted. I revert back to what she did and what she didnt do at times. But growing up in the disposable age is a bad habit that is hard to break. When something is fixable is is too much a hassle to fix or just buy new? Unfortunately, I had gotten into the buy a new one mentality. Over the last 10 years I have been seeing the onslought of even more of a throwaway society and have been doing my best to keep from re-entering that mentality.

The ''better life through gadgets'' concept has hit our American way of life right between the eyes and has stunned us like cattle. I cant tell you how many times I have sold or given away things such as tools and implements, and then after the move a few years later, only buy or purchase that same crap I unloaded a few years earlier. That makes me mad cause of my lack of planning.

Which is why I am re-inventing our lifestyle alittle at a time and finally going home, or as I see it, retiring and setting up a small homestaed for me and the Mrs. to live out the Winter of our lives. If we are blessed to hit 75 years on this earth, our son will of have inherited a fully functional homestead to call his own I hope. He is ahead of most kids his age and has a start on believing what needs to be done in future life changing situations we all may face soon..........

I am rambling...sorry

[Aseries]

I have enough tools to be able to fix just about anything, I buy weird hammers, surgical tools, a friend of mine gets free snap on tools from work he works in aircraft, they toss all kinds of perfectly good tools, which are fine for home use.

I buy drill bits, lots of sand paper, it was mostly because a few years ago when I did have free time it was late at night, and I hated running out of drill bits at 1am, and wait till the next day to get more. And consumables always go up so I always buy extra of everything for what ever machine I own...

It just makes sense, and I dont buy cheap tools, due to they simply arent worth it as mentioned before. Flea Markets you can find good deals on people selling tools..

[patience]

If I could only have ONE power tool, it would be a bench grinder. The versatility is amazing. Besides sharpening all manner of stuff (including drill bits, by eyeball), you can modify junk screwdrivers, masonry nails, old engine valves, and much more to be new tools for your own use.

I learned to grind away the stem of an engine valve near the face (the big end) until the face end falls off, to make tool blanks. Then, set the grinder tool rest very close to the stone, and chuck the valve stem in an electric drill. Turn on the grinder, hold the drill at an appropriate angle to the stone (on the OD of the stone, NEVER on the flat side which could break the stone and it becomes shrapnel), and turn on the drill. By careful hand pressure, you can grind the valve stem into a center punch, or a taper or pin punch. This works with Allen wrenches, too, since they will fit in the chuck.

READ UP ON GRINDER SAFETY! It's your eyes, fingers and body parts at risk here! It is far safer to hold the workpiece with a pair of Vise Grips than to hold it in your fingers. Make sure you have it clamped as tight as you possibly can, too. If you see it move in the pliers, stop and fix it.

To learn how to grind a drill bit, look carefully at a new drill of considerable size--1/2" or larger--to learn the shape you must make on the end. With the grinder turned OFF, practice the movement necessary to achieve that shape, using the new bit to guide your practice. Then try it on a dull one. Stop and compare to the new one, and decide what you have to change to make it the proper shape.

It is worth learning to grind drills. Saves a lot of trips to town and lots of money over time. It's a real pleasure to work with sharp tools, too.

[NCLee]

Big Ditto on grinder safety!

Last summer I was using a wire wheel mounted on one to clean some rust off a piece of rebar. Just needed about an inch cleaned for my project. No big deal, until I caught the nuckle of my ring finger on the corner of the stone on the other side. Left a trail of blood between the grinder and the first aid kit that had to be cleaned up, after I stopped the bleeding. I was lucky that I didn't destroy that nuckle.

One more thing to add to Patience's excellent advice is to look for manually operated grinders. They show up once in a long while at various places that sell used stuff. I inherited a small bench mounted grinder that's turned by hand. Still looking for a foot powdered water-cooled wheel, but every one that I've seen, so far is way beyond my budget. Too many folks looking for "decorator" pieces. :mad:

Another option for sharpening is glass and sandpaper. Google "scary sharp" for more information. My setup uses safety glass side windows salvaged from a wrecked school bus. Not only is this a manual method, it's more economical to setup than purchasing good quality oil and/or water stones. From what I understand, the deposits of natural stone is being rapidly depleted, thus the price is just getting higher and higher.

Lee

[bookwormom]

great thread, but it wears me out just reading it. I think I will paint, "the simple life aint simple" on a sign and hang it on the wall.
wouldn't it be nice to have good neighborhoods and have a few handimen around who can do all the stuff I can't do.

I have a bench grinder, to grind off sharp edges of freshly fired pottery. I wish I had my grandfather's water grinding wheel, that I used to have to turn for him while he sharpened stuff for people. what really worries me are small engines that we depend on to work, tillers, chainsaws, I am a big zero with things like that. But heck, once TSHTF we can forget about things like that anyway. They don't run on air and water.

[patience]

Small engines will run on al-kee-hol!!! Did that back in the stone age when I was a kid, racing go karts. A little lacquer thinner added makes 'em start easier, and you have to drill out the carb jets a bit because alcohol has lower fuel value than gasoline. (That's why you get poor mileage on gas with alcohol added.)

A second option is wood-gas, AKA producer gas, made by heating dry wood until it smokes, then direct that to the engine. (It is mostly methane and CO, IIRC.) That is a much more involved thing to do, but it does work. I think small engines will be around for a while yet, and some clever guys will make a few bucks converting them to alternative fuels.

But I'm with NCLee on this--cranks make a lot of sense for small jobs, like grinding tools. I did find one of the old natural grindstones, but haven't got it mounted up yet. The only real reason to use those old ones is the large diameter, which allows them to be turned rather slowly yet still have the outer diameter going fast enough to do some good. (Larger diameter = more surface of grindstone going past the tool at any given RPM, compared to a smaller one with less circumference.) Small diamter grinders have to run at higher RPM to get the same results. That's why the crank operated bench grinders have a gear setup inside to speed them up. Those old big ones, of 18" to 24" diameter can be operated by a crank directly on their axle. The fact that they are heavy gives them lots of momentum (they act as their own flywheel), so once you get them going, they have a more even speed when grinding on them intermittently.

Cranks and lever handles abound on our place for powering tools. Have a couple lever operated shears for sheet metal and small round steel, got a foot-powered sheet metal shear, a bench grinder like Lee's mounted on the drill press for sharpening drills, and the drill press has a crank, too. Likewise, the blower on the forge. The water pump on the back porch (atop the cistern) has a lever handle, and the lard press and fruit press both have cranks, along with the meat grinder, the Victorio food processor, and an antique pea-sheller I found at a flea market. There's a burr mill in the barn for DD that has both a crank AND a gasoline engine, a 2 1/2 hp "Blue motor" from Harbor Freight that runs all day on about 3 pints of gas. There's a very old corn sheller with a crank sitting in the shop awaiting restoration, but I already restored one of the box-mounted ones for DD.

My big burr mill has an electric motor and a gas engine, but no crank---yet. It would take a manly fellow to crank that for very long. ;) But I'm thinking on that one.

[grumble]

You have some cool stuff, patience.

When I see things like you mention in someone's scrap heap, and ask about it, a light bulb always comes on in the owner's eyes. They all of a sudden get an immediate emotional attachment to the item ("my great grand daddy willed this to his first-born grandson with his dying breath..."). And they assume that I want the item to spray paint and sell for a fortune to some antique dealer who would know the true value.

Old horse drawn farm implements and shop tools still sit, rusting or sold for scrap weight, in my neighbor's junk piles. Saddens me, but I ain't a-gonna pay a hundred bucks for a crank drill press that may already be too far gone to be repaired.

[patience]

grumble,

I bought a second crank drill press (originally called a post drill) last summer for $100, and it needed quite a bit of work. Nothing serious was missing nor broken, but I spent a couple weeks getting it back in shape. I paid $40 to get it sand blasted, made a couple small parts, painted it, made an floor stand for it (so it doesn't have to be bolted to a building), and put a new $85 chuck on it. Worth it, or not? That's up to the individual. The thing is, there aren't many choices in the matter if you are going to have a crank drill press. They are simply getting rare.

A lot of the old farm stuff is like that, having been discovered by the antique crowd. They don't really know what it is, would never consider USING it, but they think it LOOKS cool, so they will pay an outrageous amount for it for bragging rights! That really upsets me, when I need something to USE. Then they set it in the front yard to rust away to nothing, with Petunias planted in it. GRRRR!!!!

For blacksmith related items, check out this site: http://www.anvilfire.com/

That group has a 10 acre flea market at least once a year in Ohio somewhere, I'm told, and prices are realistic.

My Dad's uncle was a blacksmith, and could fix anything on the farm with a small box of carpenter's tools and his blacksmith shop. It doesn't have to be complicated if you just use the most basic tools. Uncle John took more time to do things than I would with a modern machine shop, but he had a very small investment in his shop, and NO electricity. That has some things going for it. :D

[CountryGuy]

I agree... see a lot of the antique types driving thru on their "weekends to Amish country" who buy up old equipment or household items. They buy it and stick it in their house or yard for pretty and waste a good piece of equipment that many times works or only needs a little TLC to put it to work. They never buy the junk pieces, always have to take the decent stuff and throw out stupid amounts of money to get "authentic" Amish and Menonite stuff.

Patience, you might now on the blacksmitthy topic. Once upon a time I had an old timer tell me the most important thing to blacksmithing is having a quality forge. Can you add any insight or what do you think it takes? Any Idea what your uncle used for fuel? We have a lot of anthracite(hard) coal around here that might be perfect to get the heat.
I'm wondering what would be the best type of steel to stock up on that lends itself best to smithing if it needs it?

[NCLee]

CountryGuy, you know what drives me bonkers?

Seeing useful items turned into yard-art. :mad: When we go into the big city, there's a spot with a hand-full of junk shops in a cluster. Sometimes I can find some real bargains there, that's why I keep stopping by.

However, it makes me want to cuss when I see things that have been destroyed in terms of their original purpose. A couple of the shop owners like to display "country" bird houses, bird baths, flower planters and such made with "found" objects. Wooden items are left outside, in the weather, to get that "aged", shabby chic look.

One shop has a mid-size wood cookstove (the enameled version) with flower pots sitting in the eye holes. Old fashioned wooden kitchen chairs, seat replaced with boards and holes for more flower pots.

I'm sure you've seen in the movies, someone take a rifle and smash it against a tree to destroy it. That's what I want to do with their drill. Hold it by the tail and smash it against that washpot they turned into a flower pot.

Lee

[patience]

CountryGuy,

A nice forge is helpful and a great convenience, but IMHO it is what you know that makes the difference. Most important is how to build a clean fire, meaning to have the coal coked out so it isn't smoky, and making the fire to suit the task at hand. A long thin peice wants a long, narrow fire, etc.. All the forge does is provide a place for that fire, and properly feed air to it. I have found that hand cranked forge blowers are far more controllable than electric blowers.

Anthracite ("hard coal") is ideal for forging. It has less impurities, particularly sulfur, than soft coal (bituminous). The impurities must be baked out of the coal (coking) before you can do serious work. Coking is the process of roasting the coal until impurities burn up, leaving only carbon chunks called coke. In a forge, this is done by constantly feeding more coal up close to the fire to be roasted. If it catches fire before you want it to, making the fire too large, you put out the outer edges by sprinkling water on it. There needs to be a bucket of water nearby for that purpose, maybe also doubling as the "slack tub" where hot metal is cooled (quenched).

As coal burns, there will be some residue of a glassy nature called clinker, that form in the bottom of the forge fire. Good forges have a cast iron ball with a hole in it (for air passage) at the bottom of the firepot (tuyere, pronounced "tweer"). That ball is called a clinker breaker for obvious reasons. As the coal is consumed and more is added, clinkers form at the bottom because that is where the coal burns first. The clinkers formed there can obstruct the air flow from the bottom, making the fire burn unevenly, or worse. So, clinkers have to be raked out with a poker and the fire rebuilt with burning coke in the center, and fresh coal being "coked out" around the fire. This becomes an ongoing process as you work, but the fire stays clean for quite a while, allowing a fair amount of work to be done before the fire needs serious attention.

Charcoal can be used for forging, and makes the cleanest fire of all, but it burns up so fast as to become a constant problem. Coal is far more dense, so it has more fuel/burns longer for a given volume of it. Coal also has the convenient tendecy to stick together, making the fire hold it's shape without falling in as charcoal does. The sticking is a blessing and a curse, also requiring attention when you stick a piece of iron in the fire to heat. Forging amounts to ongoing fiddling with the fire! That was the big reason for production blacksmiths to go to natural gas fired forges when it became available.

I have built forges with a brake drum from a large truck for the tuyere, with a 2" pipe Tee on the bottom--an open leg of the Tee pointing down for ashes to fall out (with a weighted, hinged cover, like on a tractor or semi exhaust pipe) and the other leg going to the blower. It can be done with a very crude setup.