I'm screwed... radiator froze up

[troy]

I really don't know why I'm posting, but maybe someone has a solution that I'm not seeing.

I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with about 155k miles. It's been an awesome car for the last 10 years, but recently, it's showing its age. I have a high pressure leak in the radiator, and I've tried all the sealers out there, but with no luck. I couldn't justify buying gallon after gallon of antifreeze to put in it, so it's been straight water until I can get the radiator replaced.

This morning, it all came to bite me in the butt. We had a cold front move in and now it's froze solid. The jeep overheated while trying to warm it up, and now it's sitting there cooling off, and I'm hoping that the heat thaws out the water enough to restore circulation. I'm not holding my breath though.

I can't afford the $400 it'll take to replace the radiator. Can't work with no car (job is 40 miles away).

So stressful. :(

[ScrubbieLady]

We had a sudden cold front come in(years back) and my hubby's work vehicle and my sister-in-law's vehicle froze up. They(bubby and brother-in-law) opened up the radiator caps and aimed a shop heater at the front of the vehicles until the radiator water melted. Don't remember why but there wasn't enough anti-freeze in either vehicle.

Check out the junk yards. Eventually, replacing a radiator is less expensive than buying anti-freeze. Especially, if you miss work because of the problem.

[Grouchy-Hermit]

Have you looked into having the radiator repaired instead of replaced?

[lunghd]

For the lack of a nail...

Well, let's hope your block isn't cracked or a freeze plug popped out. Is this the inline 6 cyl (4.0L) or V-8?

Try Radiators.com - VERY inexpensive compared to most local shops. My new radiator arrived in LESS than 24 hours from the opposite coast and cost well under 1/2 that cost. (Different model Jeep, though.)

As mentioned - check your local boneyards although most of the time a radiator is crunched in a collision. An online search engine for junkyards is www.car-part.com . GREAT for looking for parts and finding the best deal without doing tons of driving.

Or go onto Jeeps Unlimited (www.jeepsunlimited.com) and see if someone has a wrecked Grand they are parting out. I'm a moderator on that forum if I can help you out any.

[chrisser]

My local pull-a-part sells antifreeze they collect from the vehicles before they're put in the yard. It's pretty cheap IIRC and should be already mixed. That's one option for the future.

Junk yard could also be a source for a used radiator. Radiators at my local pull-a-part are $40 with the core charge, $32 without.

JC Witney has radiators on sale. Looks like one for the Grand Cherokee would be $128 (plus $12 oversize charge and shipping).

http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement-radiator/p2024088.jcwx?filterid=d1179y2002j1

I find JC Witney to be a little on the high side though. Ebay or www.rockauto.com probably has them cheaper.

[troy]

Yeah, the cost of the radiator itself isn't the problem, it's the labor to install it. My stress level for all things in my life is so high that I really don't want to even attempt this on my own. I have a friend who has a garage, but I'm not sure he has the expertise to tell me if I'm throwing my money away or not by fixing this thing.

New development... I poured some hot water into the radiator (with the bleed plug out), and cranked it up. The engine itself is running as smooth as ever, but when I walked around, I noticed water coming out the exhaust. Not a huge amount, but it is a nice trickle that comes in spurts. I fear I may have blown a gasket or something worse. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll know for sure until I can get the thing to circulate properly.

Ugh... I just dunno what to do here. Anyone have any suggestions on how to rig the lottery? There's a drawing tonight, and that $5M (after taxes 'n stuff) sure would come in handy about now!

[randallhilton]

New development... I poured some hot water into the radiator (with the bleed plug out), and cranked it up. The engine itself is running as smooth as ever, but when I walked around, I noticed water coming out the exhaust. Not a huge amount, but it is a nice trickle that comes in spurts. I fear I may have blown a gasket or something worse. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll know for sure until I can get the thing to circulate properly.

You may just be seeing condensation which will go away after everything warms up.

In the bigger picture -- if you can't afford maintenance you can't afford a vehicle. It's like not feeding a horse. Generally speaking, the cheapest vehicle to own is the one you currently have but you have to keep them up or they'll let you down.

[grumble]

Couple things:

-If there was any antifreeze at all left in the radiator, chances are you just got the coolent turned to slush inside the engine, not frozen into solid ice.

-If the icy stuff inside the engine was frozen hard, you may have shelled your water pump when you started the engine. Add that to your possible repair bill.

-Very unlikely the water from the tailpipe came from the radiator. You'd get big puffs of white smoke if it were, and smell it. But, it is worth your while to make real sure you don't have any water in the oil pan. After you get it running, check the dipstick often to make sure the black oil doesn't turn into grey sludge.

-as a short term way to thaw a slushy radiator, you can pour a half pint or so of rubbing alcohol into the radiator. It lowers the freezing point of the water and melts the ice. Just be sure to leave the radiator cap off so the higher vapor pressure doesn't overpressure the system. The alcohol will boil off as soon as the engine warms up.

[J R Adams]

Couple things:

-If there was any antifreeze at all left in the radiator, chances are you just got the coolent turned to slush inside the engine, not frozen into solid ice.

-If the icy stuff inside the engine was frozen hard, you may have shelled your water pump when you started the engine. Add that to your possible repair bill.

-Very unlikely the water from the tailpipe came from the radiator. You'd get big puffs of white smoke if it were, and smell it. But, it is worth your while to make real sure you don't have any water in the oil pan. After you get it running, check the dipstick often to make sure the black oil doesn't turn into grey sludge.



There's probably a transmission oil cooler inside the radiator. Be sure to check the ATF fluid just in case.

During WWII they ran alcohol because glycol wasn't available. If you have to run alcohol, doesn't leak as bad as glycol and won't do as much damage to the engine, remove the thermostat to reduce the op temp. Won't boil the alcohol off as fast. Alcohol boils(evaporates) at about 160 F if memory serves.

Replacing a radiator isn't a big deal. Just be careful when loosening the ATF cooler connections.

If you have to run water, let the vehicle warm up and cover ( block) the radiator with cardboard. Then, raise or lower rhe cardboard depending on outaise temp.

[jeanb]

Gumble
That's awful, wish you the best in getting it going again. Maybe you could find someone going your way and give you a ride to and from work till you get it going.
Thanks

[Catalpa]

Dang, that's not good. Hope you can get it thawed. I had to replace the radiator on my van and the labor was the killer part of the cost. So I bought a radiator and conned my brother into doing the switch out for a pizza. Hope the tranny cooler and the water pump are ok! Good luck.

[offgridbob]

Hind sight is 20/20 but if and when you get it running again try to locate where the leak is. that will tell you how to fix it. A lot of times it's just a hose that needs to be tightened.

[farmerj]

if you have water trickling out of your exhaust pipe, it's likely just condesation coming out of the exhaust. Water is actually a by-product of combustion.

http://www.radiatorbarn.com/
It's where I have been buying any radiators I need.

You can easily enough replace your own radiator. They are not that difficult. Get a Haynes Manual and do it yourself.

Your bigger fear now is if you cracked the block or the head on the engine. Water is a powerful thing when it turns to solid.

[ktm rider]

changing out a radiator isn't all that difficult. Why not put an add on craigslist for a shade tree mechanic. I am sure someone on there is looking to make a few bucks. this is assuming you already have a replacement radiator.

[lunghd]

Jeep automatic tranny lines use basket connectors with o-rings that befuddle anyone who encounters them the first time. There's an easy way (which ain't obvious) and the hacksaw way - avoid the hacksaw way. :)

Changing the radiator is not a horrible job to do though if I had the radiator out I would change the water pump and serpentine belt while I was in there... cheap insurance against having to do it twice and having to do it with all that stuff in the way at 3AM...

Pop on over to JeepsUnlimited if you need a 'step-by-step' on how to do the job, the guys & gals on the Grand Cherokee board will take good care of ya.

[troy]

Well, we did this on Friday... a friend of the in-laws was gracious enough to help in exchange for a little tech-support on other things.

1) remove skid plate
2) remove front clip (bumper cover, grille, headlights, etc...)
3) finally reach the drain plug...
4) remove hoses and visible bolts
5) swing oil cooler out of the way
6) pull A/C condenser from clips in radiator
7) squeeze between AC and radiator to remove tranny lines
8) pull radiator
9) wiggle new radiator into place
10) connect tranny lines
12) re-align AC on radiator
13) try to remember where all those damned bolts and screws go
14) fill, bleed, run
15) use large channel locks to tighten up some plastic plug on the back of the fill neck.
16) bleed, run, bleed run, Ad nauseam.

IT WORKS!!! It was nerve wrecking waiting to get hot enough for the thermostat to do its thing, but once it did, I was a very happy man!

Thanks for putting up with my stress. It's NOT difficult, but it is a PITA when you don't have a garage or tools to get it all done (constant tension clamps suck, but the tool for them is very cool). It was also nice having an air wrench thingie for removing and re-installing the skid plate.

Thanks again to everyone for putting up with me!

[grumble]

RE: Item 13 on your checklist

Shade Tree Certification is dependent on the applicant mechanic avowing that the connectors, tubes, clamps, nuts, and bolts never coming out even at the end of a job. Either too many left over parts (which should be kept in a bucket for possible future use), or running out and having to dig through previous parts buckets is a requirement. Non-negotiable.

[Tarvae]

I've found a digital camera or the camera on my phone is good for keeping track of what went where - i just take pics as I go and then work backwards.

[troy]

RE: Item 13 on your checklist

Shade Tree Certification is dependent on the applicant mechanic avowing that the connectors, tubes, clamps, nuts, and bolts never coming out even at the end of a job. Either too many left over parts (which should be kept in a bucket for possible future use), or running out and having to dig through previous parts buckets is a requirement. Non-negotiable.

We did good. Nothing missing, nothing left over. Did have to move a few bolts around though... put some regular bolts where torx was supposed to go. Had to take the front clip off 3 times before we got it all figured out.

I've found a digital camera or the camera on my phone is good for keeping track of what went where - i just take pics as I go and then work backwards.

Yeah, I thought of this as well. But not until we were nearly done with the teardown. All screws and clips went into a can for safe keeping (this was the first thing I insisted on when we started).