S&W Model 60 5"

[documania]

I would like to hear about anyone's experience with this revolver.

I am considering acquiring one for my personal use -- primarily practice and plinking, with secondary value as self-defense.

I am female, 50-something, inexperienced, with one basic class in handguns and a few recreational shooting occasions with friends. Have shot .22s, a .357, a .44, and a .45 revolver of various makes. Much thinking about what I like (so far) and Internet searching have led me to the S&W 60/5.

However, I can't easily get my hands on one to see if reality matches idea, so next best thing is hearing about other people's experience and opinions. That might let me determine whether to exert the energy to find one for a test shoot, or redirect my efforts.

Thanks!

[Clem]

I have several Model 60s: in order of weight a 360 Kit Gun (3”) (Scandium), a 60-15 Pro (3”) and a 60-18 (5”). While the 5” 60-18 is a practical gun, I find I prefer the 60-15 Pro. That is just a matter of personal preference. I would recommend you consider a set of Pachmayr Decelerator grips for which ever model you choose. They go a long way in reducing the pain of recoil and increasing controllability.

[documania]

Thank you for this info!

[Clem]

Something to keep in mind: the K frame S&Ws weren't considered durable enough for a steady diet of full power .357. That prompted S&W to develop the 586/686 L frame guns. I have to conclude that the J frame guns probably aren't as durable as the 686. That is ok, because I don't intend to do much shooting with them with full power ammo. Not only does it beat up the gun, it beats up my hand. I load milder loads for these guns and they work just fine.

[martialcanine45cal]

I own a stainless steel Smith & Wesson Model 60 3" .357 with Hogue rubber grips and stock adjustable-rear sight. I like this firearm and couldn't bring myself to sell it when I consolidated my firearms to fewer calibers last year.

It is accurate, easy to carry, and pleasant to shoot in 38SPL. 357 rounds give you a little whip but nothing unbearable or unpleasant in the stainless steel frame; a 5" barrel would make this even less of an issue.

As an inexperienced shooter, a DA revolver would be an excellent, simple platform for you to start off with. The S&W 60 stainless is built solid. In 357, it will be useful for concealed carry, home defense and hunting backup, and will allow for cheaper, friendlier target practice with 38SPL rounds. With a 5" barrel, it would even be useful for harvesting small-to-medium (with experience) game at close ranges.

I must stress that I think for an inexperienced, first-time buy, for an all-around gun, the stainless steel frame is a must.

Edit: Ah, one complaint you may have is the heavy trigger pull, depending on your hand strength. As long as you are instructed, practice, and learn on proper trigger control, I'd stick with it and possibly get a trigger job done to reduce the pull.

[documania]

As an inexperienced shooter, a DA revolver would be an excellent, simple platform for you to start off with. . . . I must stress that I think for an inexperienced, first-time buy, for an all-around gun, the stainless steel frame is a must.

Does your abbreviation "DA" mean "double action"?

Also, please elaborate on the stainless steel frame comment. Do you mean stainless steel in comparison to plastic? Or stainless steel vs. the "blued" steel I've seen referenced for this and other guns?

Thanks!

[Clem]

DA is double action.

I feel stainless is currently more durable and easier to take care of than blued steel. No revolvers have plastic frames, that I know of. When you consider the strength of stainless, consider that S&W only makes the .460 and .500 Mags in stainless and they are certified to 60,000 psi.

[martialcanine45cal]

Yes, DA means double action, which means that a complete single pull of the trigger draws the hammer back and drives it forward (two actions = double action)to fire a round. A Model 60 is a DA.

I don't mean to talk down to you by that explanation and hope it helps.

Stainless steel is the shiny, all-steel model. Blued all-steel models should weigh about/if not the same, but Mod 60s were not available in blued when I purchased mine.

I stressed the stainless all-steel model (you can substitute blued steel with this) because many smaller frame double action revolvers are made with light weight materials (titanium, scandium, etc).

Because you are a newer shooter and this gun has multiple uses, I'd stay away from the lightweights/airweights. They are unpleasant to shoot in .357 and even many .38SPL rounds. You will not want to practice with a gun that is unpleasant to shoot.

So, again, buying a .357 revolver allows you to shoot both .357Magnum (defense/hunting) and .38Special (cheaper) rounds through the gun. An all-steel frame will reduce recoil and last longer in my opinion. A 5" barrel will be better for plinking and hunting, while still satisfactory for CCW/home defense.

Others may be able to offer other options, but as I own a S&W Model 60 as well as two other make revolvers, under your circumstances and for you needs, a Model 60 should serve you well for a decent price.



Does your abbreviation "DA" mean "double action"?

Also, please elaborate on the stainless steel frame comment. Do you mean stainless steel in comparison to plastic? Or stainless steel vs. the "blued" steel I've seen referenced for this and other guns?

Thanks!