View Full Version : My water plan - what are your thoughts?

06-05-2014, 12:00 PM
We have a travel trailer at the top of a hill where we stay during vacations and long weekends. Internal tank holds 25 gallons and that will last us 2-3 days of moderately restrictive usage.

I have a 30 gallon portable tank, so we take 30 gallons with us, fill the trailer tank, and then after that, we haul water up from the spring.

The spring is 225' from the camper and sits about 50' below vertically. As you can imagine, hauling water up that distance gets old fast. The spring output is about 4' above ground level in the valley.

There is no electricity on the property other than batteries I tote down and our portable generator.

So here's the plan I've come up with. Let me know what you think...

First, I'll get 4 55-gallon food-safe plastic barrels.

I'll pour a large concrete pad at the spring point and a smaller one next to the camper. 3 barrels will be installed at the spring output, interconnected to give me 165 gallons of spring water storage. I'll build a small shed around them.

One barrel will go up by the travel trailer. Also in a small protective shed.

I don't know the exact spring rate but it's probably in the range of half a gallon per minute. Since it runs 24x7 and we have weeks between trips, I figure that the spring will more than fill those three barrels, and will then overflow to it's current spill path, so the water will be constantly fresh.

Harbor Freight has this clear water pump. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-clear-water-pump-with-79cc-ohv-gas-engine-69747-8849.html Gasoline powered and it says it will push a 100' head. Has 1" inlet/outlet. I plan on mounting it down where the three barrels are.

Then Lowe's carries this plastic coil pipe http://www.lowes.com/pd_56564-124-2-1160200_0__?productId=3515564. Long term, I'd like to bury it, but initially I'd just run it on the surface.

If my math is right, 225' of 1" ID pipe will hold about 36 gallons, so one of my three barrels will be almost completely devoted to just filling the pipe.

I figure I'd walk down to the spring, fire up the pump, and pump up enough water to fill the 55 gallon barrel up at the camper. Then it's an easy process to transfer half of it at a time into the camper holding tank. The pump is rated at 37 GPM, so I would think it wouldn't take long to move the 55 gallons I need, plus the 36 to fill the pipe first (I'd put in a check valve, but I'm assuming worst case).

This would be a 3 season only system. I would drain it all completely in the fall and have the spring bypass it all using it's current pathway.

This all seems straightforward, but I've not done something like this before. Will this work as anticipated, or have I missed something?

06-05-2014, 02:05 PM
Your plan sounds like a good one.

I am not sure about your head calculation however - the total head is a combination of lift and run length - also need in the calculation is the pipe size.

Without getting into figuring this myself, I found an quick and dirty online head calculator you might find useful.


The reason I am bringing this up is I don't think the pump you listed will pump enough being rated at 100' head.

06-05-2014, 02:38 PM

That's exactly the sort of thing I needed to know.

Based on that calculator, if I had a pump that supported a 2" hose, I would be well within the 100' dynamic head.

This one's a few dollars more, but should probably work OK http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-clear-water-pump-with-212cc-gas-engine-69774-9231.html

Also flows significantly faster, although that's not a big concern.

However, finding 2" piping becomes more difficult.

Lowes has schedule 40 2" pvc that is dual-marked for drain and pressure applications: http://www.lowes.com/pd_23832-1814-PVC+07200++0600_0__?productId=3133041

Would that be a good solution? The extra cost for the pump ends up being offset by the lower cost for PVC piping, although it would be more complicated to lay with a lot of joints.

06-05-2014, 02:41 PM

Forgot to put the higher flow rate into the calculator.

That gives me the same problem - too much dynamic head for the pump.

Does that mean the water won't get up to the top of the hill, or that it just won't get up there as fast as the pump would be capable of? At lower flow rates, I have plenty of head.

06-05-2014, 03:15 PM
Let me do a little more research. I spent many years a long time ago as a wholesale plumbing supply salesman - I used to size water pumps and HVAC systems in my sleep.

First thing is that I know the 1" plastic pipe will be plenty - when you drop a submersible well pump even 300' down a well all that was used was 1" coil plastic.

I know what I am looking for - there is a sizing chart from the pump manufacturer that I used to use - just have to find it.

Edit to add: Sorry - I think I am making this more difficult than it needs to be.

What I was looking at was adding friction loss for the 225' run. But if pumping at 10gpm that really doesn't become an issue - only if the flow rate is much higher.

So I figured a base of pumping 10gpm which would be plenty for filling that 30 gallon barrel - would take 3 minutes at that rate.

Using that same calculator I linked to above here are the figures I input:

Total feet of pipe: 225
Roughness of pipe: 140 (using Polyethylene as a guide)
Flow rate : 10
Pipe diameter: 1
Suction lift: 0
Static Discharge head: 50

With those input it gives me a total dynamic head of 67.87ft. So the Harbor Freight has a spec of 105ft total (I read total as dynamic) that pump will be fine. If anything it will give you a little more than 10gpm.

I verified this calculation with some manual calculations from some of the Goulds pump literature and comes out close to the same.

Sorry to throw any confusion into your thoughts!

06-05-2014, 07:34 PM
If I'm reading that right, the pump setup has enough head to push water to where I need it slowly, but it doesn't have enough to push water where I need it at it's full rated speed?

That'd be OK with me, but will it hurt the pump at all to be moving water slower than it "wants" to?

I won't use it that often, but I also don't want to destroy it.

If it can push water to the top of the pipe at just about any speed, it'd be a luxury compared to what we have now.

06-05-2014, 08:35 PM
Once you get the pump equations sorted out, the main comment I'd make is to recommend considerably more storage at the top of the hill. It will be more convenient and reduce the times when you have to start the pump in the middle of a rain storm or when you just don't feel like doing it. If you have a power or motor problem, or maybe a dead skunk in the stream then you have a bit more time to solve the issue. It will be more convenient for irrigation. Lastly, and maybe most importantly, A good supply at the top of the hill can come in handy in the event of a fire.

If you have long cold winters, consider a single large tank which will be less likely to freeze than individual barrels. That costs more money but $500 gets you a tank of 500 gallons or so.

06-05-2014, 09:10 PM
The way pump ratings work using your HF pump as an example.

The pump is rated at 2220 GPH which is 37 GPM. That 37 GPM is the rating with no head - straight out of the pump.

The rating for total head is 105'. That means at or above 105' is where it will no longer pump any water.

So if we roughly split that at your 50' of head, you would take the 37 GPM rating and cut it in half (half the rated head of 105') which means you will get an effective pumping rate of ~18.5 GPM at your tanks.

And no, it doesn't hurt the pump at the higher head amounts. If the pump can't move the water because of excessive head, it just keeps turning the turbine but using more fuel.

Note to add - Being that you are just pumping water into an open vessel, these figures should be correct. At first when I questioned your size of pump, I didn't take into account that you have no real water pressure needs. When sizing a home or commercial system, you are pumping into a pressure tank which requires typically 50psi. In that case that HF pump wouldn't create enough pressure at that head. But since there is no pressure vessel that pump will be fine and pump as I noted above.

06-05-2014, 09:20 PM
You've been a huge help Stan. I really appreciate the advice.

06-05-2014, 11:25 PM
You're welcome - but you had it right from the get go!

06-06-2014, 03:34 AM
If there is any hill behind you, I would pump it up hill further and let it gravity feed down to your trailer. One less bucket/pump. I have a spring down hill about 350 feet on the other side of the road. I take a 210 gallon PU Tank down to the spring and take my little Honda 1 inch pump and fill the tank. Drive up above the cabin and empty it into my 1000 gallon tank then it gravity feeds down to the cabin.

06-06-2014, 08:53 PM
Two thoughts.

A 275-gal food grade tote tank will have more capacity, not cost much more, and only slightly larger footprint. It also has a convenient drain and eliminates plumbing 3 barrels together.

The other is a cistren at the spring. More investment but winter-proof. Add a Bison hand pump with a buried line.

06-07-2014, 02:02 AM
Have you thought about a solar pump?

06-07-2014, 02:39 AM
Have you thought about a solar pump?

I have, but the spring site is in a valley that's shaded almost continuously. Actually, our whole property is a valley and we're surrounded by hills of varying heights. The spring is at the bottom of a steep, west-facing slope with one of the larger hills to its south.

The closest site with close to full sun is the use point - 225' away.

For $149, plus whatever the replacement warranty costs, I get a quick and reliable solution that addresses our current, limited needs if I'm willing to walk down and up the hill once or twice a week (and endure the noise for a bit).

06-07-2014, 12:42 PM
I have, but the spring site is in a valley that's shaded almost continuously. Actually, our whole property is a valley and we're surrounded by hills of varying heights. The spring is at the bottom of a steep, west-facing slope with one of the larger hills to its south.

The closest site with close to full sun is the use point - 225' away.

For $149, plus whatever the replacement warranty costs, I get a quick and reliable solution that addresses our current, limited needs if I'm willing to walk down and up the hill once or twice a week (and endure the noise for a bit).
Ok. I know that kind of topography well.

06-07-2014, 02:25 PM
I think that is a great plan. More storage at the top and bottom of the hill when you can, and the manual back up plan.
Yup, solar would be handy. Maybe charging a battery in the sunny spot then swapping out to charge another, while moving the charged battery for use elsewhere.

06-07-2014, 02:39 PM
The nice thing about the barrels is they're cheap, easy to move and redundant. Depending on how I plumb them, a leak in one won't necessarily mean losing all the water.

The hose/line up the hill is a one-time investment - I can always change the pump or the pump power source, or enlarge the storage at the top or bottom of the hill.

But we ordered a mattress for the camper last night - my wife's main complaint. If I can make it so we don't haul water up the hill, that's wife complaint #2. The cheaper and easiest way I can accomplish that, the better.

06-07-2014, 03:22 PM
Just a thought on the water tanks.

I have one of these - don't even remember where or when I got it:


I sometimes hear of folks finding these for sale for ~$50. They are usually used for food grade stuffs. Just a thought as you travel around before you buy your materials - these hold 275 gallons and have a 2" ball valve at the bottom which has a threaded outlet, and a large 3"-4" opening at the top (screw lid) for filling. The aluminum cage around the tank is great and they are actually quite light. Would work well if you needed an alternate water source - you can load it in a pick-up by hand - fill with water somewhere - then drain into another tank on the ground.

For your intended setup these would be great - if you can find them........you certainly would't want to buy a new one @$500!!


06-07-2014, 04:17 PM
Those water cubes were my first idea. I actually got ahold of two of them at one point.

For my use, there's a couple problems with them.

First, the spring output is between 3 and 4 feet above the ground at the bottom of the valley. That's barely enough to fit the barrels under after putting down a base. I wouldn't be able to fill the cubes completely.

Secondly, they're heavy. I can't get any machinery down the hill all the way, so that means muscling it down by hand.

Lastly, and this may not be a problem but, they're hard to clean compared to a barrel. They have an access hole, but they're too deep to get your arm into very far and very difficult to get any sort of tool into. Hopefully we won't get much sediment from the spring over time, but the only way to know is to set it all up and see. It is water coming out of the ground, after all.

I do think they'd be a viable option for the top of the hill when we need that kind of storage capacity, but at the bottom of the hill, the barrels seem a better solution for us, at least for now. We're only there during vacation and weekends for the foreseeable future

What I'd really like is underground concrete cisterns top and bottom, but that's going to have to wait until we're there permanently.

Once I get the water distribution set up, the spring box itself needs attention, but with 200+ gallons storage between the lower and upper tanks, plus 25 gallons in the camper and our 30 gallon portable tank, I can accumulate plenty of water, then divert the spring and work on it, which will probably disturb some sediment, without having to worry about sourcing water until it clears again. We could stretch that kind of storage for at least a few weeks, especially if I wait until the fall.

06-09-2014, 06:59 PM
Made some progress...

Last week I ordered some 1" bulkhead connectors. They came today.

Over the weekend I picked up the pump from Harbor Freight. Was still on sale, and I got one year of replacement warranty just in case I don't get everything set up within the 90 day base warranty and find it doesn't work. I didn't think 2 years of warranty was worth the cost since we'll be using it so infrequently.

Local barrel place only had 3 barrels available, but I got them. They're going to let me know when they get in a new shipment so I can get a 4th.

The rest is just basic plumbing with parts from the local big box store, and building an enclosure to keep light out and prevent any falling limbs from knocking off the plumbing. We also occasionally have horses on the property - we let a neighbor graze and in return I don't have to cut the grass as often. Horse people probably know this, but those critters are very curious and will nibble/destroy the oddest things that catch their fancy. Every time I visit, they've picked something on the travel trailer to nibble off.

I'm a little bit torn on what to do now vs waiting until I get on site. It's much easier to build with my workshop up in Cleveland than it is to do it at the bottom of a valley with no power. I also have some lumber on site I'd like to use rather than buying new. I'll probably build some sort of a base and framework and possibly the roof of the enclosure, then dry fit all the plumbing as I think I'm going to have it, then finalize it all when I get down there and side/roof the enclosure.

I had forgotten about the horses and it will complicate my water line run. I don't want to bury it at first for a couple reasons. First, I don't want to put that much work in only to find something didn't go right. Second, I want to be able to check for leaks before putting the pipe in the ground. Third, we have rock/clay soil and the thought of digging a 225' ditch by hand doesn't appeal to me, but I'm not sure I want to rent a ditch digger just yet.

Most importantly, I have a few options for where to run the pipe and all have their pros and cons. I may change my mind depending on what works.

That said, with the horses, I don't want the line sitting on top of the ground for them to step on or trip over (one of the horses is getting on in years), or otherwise dislodge.

So I'll probably put the lines in a shallow trench just barely below ground knowing that's not the final configuration, and make more permanent plans later once we've put the system through it's paces a few times. It may lift during the winter and, if it does, I'll deal with that later. That will also let me mow over it, if I want.

Should have something to show later this week unless I get distracted by something else. I'd like to go down sooner, but realistically we're probably looking at sometime after July 4.

06-10-2014, 10:19 AM
Consider a hydraulic ram pump to do the heavy lifting-- no power source required: http://virtual.clemson.edu/groups/irrig/Equip/ram.htm

06-10-2014, 11:29 AM
Would a hydraulic ram work in my situation?

I've got about 1/2 gallon/minute flow with a 4' head and I have to push the water 225' with a 50' head. I haven't run any figures, but it seems like I have very little power to harness.

06-10-2014, 12:27 PM
For your consideration:
Water has weight. I expect you understand that very well after carrying a couple five gallon buckets up your hill a few times… A gallon is 8 pounds; a cubic foot is 64 pounds.
If you look back in history you will find that overshot waterwheels were much more common than undershot ones. The undershot wheels rely on the force of the water to turn the wheel, but the overshotsdo not require vast amounts at high speeds. Neither do they turn rapidly enough to drive a jetpump or other waterslinging type, but they work well to drive a plunger on a displacement pump. Perhaps not a high volume system, but time is on your side.
My solution would be to build an overshot wheel that would drive a manual displacement pump to move water up the hill into an elevated storage tank that would drain to your camper tank. One of your barrels could be used as a sump for the pump to pull the water from.
Even though you have a low flow and not much drop, time is constant – a displacement (piston) pump can work slowly and a 6’ wheel with 8 “buckets” can hold quite the volume (weight) to turn it. You may need to dig a shallow pit for the wheel to keep the size up?
Just an idea for you to ponder on.

06-10-2014, 12:41 PM
I have pondered some sort of wheel.

We do have a small creek that runs right by the spring. Once upon a time, there was a pond fed by the creek and a dam next to the spring - maybe 10' high. Part of the dam washed out years before we bought the place and the pond appears to have significantly filled in unsurprisingly.

What I'd like to eventually do is get the pond excavated back out and reconstruct the dam and then I could have a pretty decent sized water wheel once the pond filled. Probably not enough flow to generate any electric power, but likely enough I could use it to pump water from the spring. Plus the pond would be a source for irrigation/livestock and food if we stocked it.

The creek itself may be spring fed although the spring may or may not be on our property. One of these days, I need to see if I can find if the source is just runoff or is actually a spring (plus runoff). We're still talking a trickle, but at least that trickle would have some significant head to work with. Plus there's something aesthetically pleasing about a water wheel...

At that point, the system I'm building now would be my backup so I don't consider it a waste of effort. I could do so much more if we could live down there permanently...

06-10-2014, 02:25 PM
Would a hydraulic ram work in my situation?

I've got about 1/2 gallon/minute flow with a 4' head and I have to push the water 225' with a 50' head. I haven't run any figures, but it seems like I have very little power to harness.
Nope. No power there. You might measure the flow and fall in the creek and let us know about that.
I pump 8 GPM of water with a water turbine, 250 feet up and 1200 feet away but that requires 127 liters a second dropping 1 meter through my turbine.
What kind of wind do you have in the canyon? If it is like my canyon not much.

06-10-2014, 02:33 PM
Virtually no wind where the water is.

We have some occasional wind at other places on the property but, like solar it's not prevalent near the places where we could use the power.

06-10-2014, 02:37 PM
This all reminds me of when I was building my place and addressing the same water issue - and continued a bit after I moved there.

I had that same trickle of a stream and researched hydraulic rams - not near enough force in that stream. Then came the thoughts of wind or solar after I moved there for power.

Sounds like Crisser's place is similar to our mountains here (same mountain range from WV to here in PA). Down in these hollows the sun is not seen until at least 2 hours after actual sunrise and loose it the same before sunset. Wind is next to nothing with the mountains blocking it all.

It is truly beautiful and I wouldn't want to live anywhere else, but our areas are not conducive to alternative energy sources.

06-10-2014, 02:57 PM
Sounds a lot like our place.

I wouldn't trade it, but there are challenges.

On the plus side, our closest neighbors have their house on the peak of one of the hills above our place. They actually have to chain down their porch furniture or it'll blow away. We don't have that problem except for the absolute worst storms.

We also have plenty of moisture that gets trapped in the valley. Most mornings we wake up to a mist. It's a little hard on the equipment and buildings over time, but it means the vegetation gets plenty of water even when the neighbors up top are dealing with dust.

06-10-2014, 03:13 PM
Yep - sounds so much the same.

We call it the tropical rain forest this time of year in the mornings......

06-10-2014, 07:12 PM
Would a hydraulic ram work in my situation?

I've got about 1/2 gallon/minute flow with a 4' head and I have to push the water 225' with a 50' head. I haven't run any figures, but it seems like I have very little power to harness.

It would work if you had a self-filling reservoir at the source to provide a little higher "initial pressure" (you were talking about interconnected barrels there anyways, weren't you?) and then just let the ram run until your storage tank at the top of the hill was filled.

During "down time" the source reservoir could refill slowly.
This would be analogous to using a wind generator/battery system in an application with intermittent wind conditions.

The question becomes one of "is the time & effort of messing with it this way worth the advantage of not needing any power source?"

The system works because it's a combination of a siphon with a little extra power boost from the elasticity of the bladder in the pumping chamber. Search "hydraulic ram pump" and you'll get all sorts of articles and movies on construction & function of it. To run continually, the output flow has to be less than the flow of the source. If your source is low flow, just build a system with lower output.

06-12-2014, 08:33 PM
Would a hydraulic ram work in my situation?

I've got about 1/2 gallon/minute flow with a 4' head and I have to push the water 225' with a 50' head. I haven't run any figures, but it seems like I have very little power to harness.
I doubt a Ram pump would work with such a small flow

As to your piping, I saw a program on TV about a Maple syrup operation where they stung miles of pipe ABOVE ground level using electric fence wire, and piped all the sap to a central location,

If you could raise it above the horses they would never bother it, althogh it would be vulnerable to falling limbs

I also think you could use square tanks at the spring if you just dig out a small area to lower them

Even if it's rocky, a jack hammer could take it down enough since you said it's already 3-4 ft high

06-13-2014, 01:26 PM
I wouldn't mind lowering the barrels or a cube into the ground a bit, but then how would I drain them completely for winter?

About the only thing I can think of is to pump them out, but I don't think I'm supposed to run the gas-powered pump dry. I suppose I could haul down a 12v battery with my little transfer pump and suck most of the remaining water out.

Do they have to be absolutely empty for the winter, or can I leave a few inches of water in the bottom? The barrels I got for the spring are referred to as "pickle barrels", so the bottom is curved. I suppose it's less likely to crack the barrel since the ice forcing against the sides will be pushed upwards by the curvature. Pic below is not one of mine, but I have 3 of basically the same thing.

(I was originally going to get an open-top blue barrel, but the seller suggested that the metal band may rust over time with the moisture at the spring point. These were cheaper and the plastic lid screws on with no danger of rusting)


I'd like to have them gravity drain, but the valley where they are going to sit is the lowest point on the property. I have a shallow ditch dug to divert the spring and the creek away from the barrel site so that stays a bit drier, but I can't sink the barrels too far into the ground before they're below that ditch and water runs in instead of out.

I suppose I could sink the ditch a bit more, or I could live with the barrels not filling completely...

Up top, I'm going to use a traditional open-top "blue" barrel. Picking it up today. That one will be elevated a bit so I can drain it completely from the bottom.

06-13-2014, 04:56 PM
If you do a waterwheel you can rig a cam system off one side as a water pump to get the water up the hill.

06-13-2014, 07:30 PM
I wouldn't mind lowering the barrels or a cube into the ground a bit, but then how would I drain them completely for winter?

All you need is some hose to siphon it out
A small amount left in them shouldn't cause problems

Also, ANY 12 volt battery will run a small pump for a short time, so a Utility sized battery will work just as well as a 60 lb monster

06-30-2014, 07:46 PM
So we're heading back to our place the week of the 14th.

Haven't worked much more on this as I've been rebuilding the transfer case on our truck, but I should be done with that tonight.

Latest thing I'm pondering is the 225' water line.

Seems I have two choices...

1) Traditional black plastic polyethylene coil pipe



2) White schedule 40 PVC pipe


So, pros and cons...

Black pipe, I'd have to get 300' as it comes in 100' lengths or a single 300' coil. Would cost about $200 for the coil. I would have to order it. PVC comes in 10' lengths at $2.50 each. I'd probably get 250' so 25 pieces or about $63. I can pick that up anytime from stock. Actually, I'd have to have the poly ordered and then take it down with us where the PVC I could pick up locally whenever it was convenient once we arrive at our place.

PVC wins as far as availability and price.

PVC will require around 25 couplers, solvent and primer. I haven't worked with black poly, but I believe it uses plastic couplers and hose clamps. PVC couplings are .36/each, so another $9 plus solvent and primer. Poly joints are mechanical while PVC are solvent (I don't think I can afford the fusing equipment for the poly)

Draw here - I've worked with PVC and I wouldn't be cutting most of these joints. So the extra time to do 25 joints is kind of a wash with learning something new, and the PVC joints will be better quality.

Adding up the connectors for the long, straight run, PVC works out to be about 1/3 of the price of poly.

The only benefit I can see with the poly pipe is it's going to be 225' of smoothness where the PVC is going to have around 25 coupled sections. I imagine each coupling is going to take a little bit off my available head, but is it enough to worry about? I'll be joining factory edges so I should have decent transitions.

The other thing is, while I'd like to bury either eventually, I plan on running everything on the surface first to make sure everything works and check for leaks. Seems the coiled poly has a tendency not to want to lay very flat so I'd probably have to stake it down initially where the PVC's pretty much going to lie where I put it.

With the Independence Day holiday coming, I'd guess I'd have to order the poly sometime this week in order to have it ready to pack.


06-30-2014, 08:52 PM
For your situation I would just use the PVC. The coil plastic is typically used in submersible pump installations where it has to be flexible. When installing or removing a submersible pump, picture the entire length of pipe (the length to which the pump will sit in the will) with the pump attached and wiring tied along the pipe - all laid out on the ground. Then the pump is first fed into the well casing and the flexible pipe fed in. Pulling a pump is the opposite - a lot of times a tractor or truck is used to pull it being the combined weight of it all is almost impossible to lift by hand. So as you can see this application must have flexible pipe.

The rigid PVC is made for more of your situation of a lateral run above ground or below. Actually I would find it easier to work with the PVC as long as your run is straight. If/when you bury it you will want your ditch straight for sure. Also the coil black plastic may give you a hard time if laying on top of the ground. The heat of the sun will make it want to relax some and when cooling will want to contract.

Only other advantage to the coil plastic that I can see is if this was a temporary setup - very easy to undo the couplings/fittings and roll it back up. Once the PVC is together that is it.

06-30-2014, 09:58 PM
Running over the PVC may make you wish you'd have put the black coil pipe?

How far down are you going with it?

06-30-2014, 10:05 PM
Running over the PVC may make you wish you'd have put the black coil pipe?

How far down are you going with it?

Do you mean how deep do I plan on burying or how much is the elevation?

Initially, I'm going to just lay it on the ground. The slope is too steep for any of our equipment/vehicles. There's a 50' drop in elevation over about 200'. So I don't have to worry about driving over it with anything. (Well, I probably could get something down there, but we just don't bother mowing anything beyond a walk path with the push mower)

We will have horses on the property occasionally during the summer/fall. This trip, I'm going to at least try to bury it in a shallow trench just below ground level so the horses don't crush, trip over or play with it.

Long term, I'd like to rent a trencher so I can sink it below the frost line, although I don't know if the spring is running when it's below freezing. I'm going to drain all the lines before winter so I'm not going to have to worry about freezing. I may get some frost heave if I just shallow bury them, but I'll see how it goes.

07-11-2014, 03:22 AM
Heading down to our place this weekend.

Have everything but the pvc pipe - I'll pick that up locally after we've unpacked and settled in.

First priority is to fix the tractor, but then I'll be working on the water supply project.

I've got the camera set aside, so hopefully I'll have some pics when we get back.

07-17-2014, 11:22 AM
Heading down to our place this weekend.

Have everything but the pvc pipe - I'll pick that up locally after we've unpacked and settled in.

First priority is to fix the tractor, but then I'll be working on the water supply project.

I've got the camera set aside, so hopefully I'll have some pics when we get back.

Look forward to your progress.
Seems forever doesnt it?
But one day soon----

Keep us updated.

07-21-2014, 11:15 AM
Unfortunately water (rain) put a damper on my plans.

It rained shortly after we arrived, and for the next two days. Since that makes our property basically inaccessible, we were stuck down there and I had to do the tractor alone as the neighbors who were going to help had no way of knowing I had started or of getting down there if they knew. Took me the better part of three days. First sunny day, we had to run into town for some odds and ends to finish up the tractor. Then I cut some of the fields.

Started to work on the water project - went into town to get the pipe. Got back, and it started to rain. I was able to do some preparatory work, but with the rain early in the week, it didn't take long for everything to be a muddy mess. And it rained the next two days until we were ready to leave.

So everything is basically planned out and on site. Just need to get down there again and assemble. Probably be going sometime in August.