CarolAnn
03-23-2008, 06:51 AM
These are general directions that may need to be adjusted for your particular machine; however, they should work for most.
Top Thread Path
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin on the top of the machine, on the right end, just left of the belt wheel.
2. feed the thread through the eyelet(s) on the top of the machine, to the far left end.
3. The thread path is now down to the tensioner. This is the small protrusion on the front side of the machine, down about half way on the arm. There are two tension plates held with a spring. The tension put on the spring can be increased or decreased by turning the knob that sticks out of the front of the tensioner. (more on this later!)
4. The thread path is now back up. You are still working on the left end of the machine. Sticking out of a slot is a small rod with an eyelet or thread hook. This rod pulls the thread - it goes up and down as you turn the belt wheel either by hand or with the treadle. Each pass up pulls the thread out slightly for another stitch.
5. After this eyelet or hook, the thread passes down again to a fixed eyelet near the bottom of the arm.
6. The final guide before threading the needle is right on the part that holds the needle - this is called the needle bar.
7. The needle will either be threaded from left to right or front to back. NEVER from right to left or back to front!
You'll know by how the needle is set. You may need to move the belt wheel a bit to bring the needle completely up so it will be easier to thread.
Needle Placement
To set or replace the needle:
Raise the needle bar to it's highest point and loosen the needle clamp screw. It may be helpful to get a small mirror to help you see closely how the needle fits. Usually there is a hole with one flat side. If your needle also has a flat side, it is obvious that the flat goes to flat. There are also grooves on the needles - one long one and one short one. The short groove always faces the flat side of the receiving hole in the needle bar.
Be sure the needle is pushed all the way up to the stop pin before you tighten the needle clamp screw.
It is very important to use sharp needles of the right size and type for your machne, and also for the type of fabric you are using. Never use a dull needle or one with the tip bent over - it simply will not work right.
You are now only half way done, because you still need to thread the bobbin and shuttle!
If your machine has long bobbins, as most treadles did, winding one the first time is an amazing process!
Top Thread Path
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin on the top of the machine, on the right end, just left of the belt wheel.
2. feed the thread through the eyelet(s) on the top of the machine, to the far left end.
3. The thread path is now down to the tensioner. This is the small protrusion on the front side of the machine, down about half way on the arm. There are two tension plates held with a spring. The tension put on the spring can be increased or decreased by turning the knob that sticks out of the front of the tensioner. (more on this later!)
4. The thread path is now back up. You are still working on the left end of the machine. Sticking out of a slot is a small rod with an eyelet or thread hook. This rod pulls the thread - it goes up and down as you turn the belt wheel either by hand or with the treadle. Each pass up pulls the thread out slightly for another stitch.
5. After this eyelet or hook, the thread passes down again to a fixed eyelet near the bottom of the arm.
6. The final guide before threading the needle is right on the part that holds the needle - this is called the needle bar.
7. The needle will either be threaded from left to right or front to back. NEVER from right to left or back to front!
You'll know by how the needle is set. You may need to move the belt wheel a bit to bring the needle completely up so it will be easier to thread.
Needle Placement
To set or replace the needle:
Raise the needle bar to it's highest point and loosen the needle clamp screw. It may be helpful to get a small mirror to help you see closely how the needle fits. Usually there is a hole with one flat side. If your needle also has a flat side, it is obvious that the flat goes to flat. There are also grooves on the needles - one long one and one short one. The short groove always faces the flat side of the receiving hole in the needle bar.
Be sure the needle is pushed all the way up to the stop pin before you tighten the needle clamp screw.
It is very important to use sharp needles of the right size and type for your machne, and also for the type of fabric you are using. Never use a dull needle or one with the tip bent over - it simply will not work right.
You are now only half way done, because you still need to thread the bobbin and shuttle!
If your machine has long bobbins, as most treadles did, winding one the first time is an amazing process!