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Go Back   BHM Forum > Self-Reliance & Preparedness > Self-reliance > Hunting/Fishing/Trapping

Hunting/Fishing/Trapping Hunting, Fishing, Trapping and related conversations.

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:16 AM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Default Blind heater ??

OK, so I built a nice insulated blind and positioned it on some high ground which ideally overlooks a deep draw used by the coyotes on a sheep farm. Since we have a coyote season here in MI, one has to hunt them through the coldest part of winter.

After I built the blind, which has insulated floor, walls and roof and proper single glazed windows, I installed a propane "Mr Buddy" ventless heater. It didn't take me long to discover that the windows fogged up internally due to water vapor in the exhaust from the propane heater. The colder the weather, the worse the fogging, to the point that the condensation freezes on the inside of the glass.

So now I am looking for a vented heater, but I need something that does not need electricity. That seems to rule out all the RV style heaters. They would probably not be any good anyway, since they are noisy, even if you had power. So far this is what I have found:


ITR Trekker cost ~$460 + venting additional (diesel fuel)


Sig Marine "Cozy Cabin" propane heater. $441 and vent is 1" pipe (very inexpensive)



Nu Way stove model 2000 (wood stove with propane burner insert)
costs $125 + another $80 for the vent and propane pressure regulator.


US Stove DV 21 or DV8 (now discontinued) $495 Is a direct vent type, can operate with no electric power. Uses propane. Operates thermostatically and turns on and off by itself to stabilize the temperature.

So any other obvious options I am missing ? The blind is really small inside, being 4'x8' floor plan, so something that had tight install clearances will help a lot...

Last edited by Westcliffe01; 01-04-2012 at 01:25 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2012, 06:45 PM
Mike LI Male Mike LI is offline
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Can't help ya but I found your comments interesting and helpful. I have always hunted open blinds and used a big buddy and was really happy. Never thought of the condensation.

Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2012, 10:03 PM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Another option is the H45 military multi fuel stove

But I get the impression it is too big for the size of space I have. These are ~$180 from surplus stores like here http://wardenssupplyco.com/cart/inde...roducts_id=759


Mike, thanks for the comment. This has hardly been a "winter" yet, but I have spent up to 10 hours a day in the blind and it would be tough to do that without shelter. This week we have lows down in the 20's and a "normal" January would be in the single digits.

The diesel heaters are intriguing but it seems they have less in the way of protective features, should the flame go out. I am also concerned that even a small diesel or kerosene spill could spook the wiley coyotes and it would be awfully difficult to get rid of that smell.

I have thought about using wood, but that seems more of a hassle and harder to regulate the heat output and the risk of making noises that could alert the wildlife. On the other hand, it may give one something to do while laying in ambush....

There is a DV8 on craigslist right now, so maybe I get lucky..
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  #4  
Old 01-13-2012, 01:46 PM
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Wyobuckaroo Male Wyobuckaroo is offline
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A thought............
For a small area, a heater that sits on a 1lb propane bottle may be all you need.
I think there is also a one man fish house size available also. Think it is all contained and runs in a 5 gallon bucket. I sounds like you have a "tree house" kind of blind with room to move around more so than just an enclosed seat type set up.

Keep in mind.......... The only death this year in our deer season was an old guy who set his closes afire trying to use a heater in a ladder type semi enclosed stand. Think he pretty much died from the fall to the ground............

Keep safe.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:47 PM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Wyo, those 1lb propane bottles are pretty expensive and they only run a buddy heater for about 4 hours. I first dragged out a 20lb propane cylinder and then followed up with a 30lb cylinder. Above 30lb they start getting difficult to move around when full. I think a 30 or 40lb cylinder is the cheapest way for a regular joe to get propane. The smaller cylinders are a rip off. I paid $55 each for 2 20lb propane cylinders to be re-filled in Grand Junction Colorado after the exchange cylinders I got turned out to be 90% empty... Last time I ever do that ...
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:49 PM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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I have ordered the Cozy Cabin heater. Looking forward to not having fogged up windows from the water vapor in the exhaust next week... Right now the heater is on the slow train from WA... Over a week delivery.. And it has a cooktop for boiling water !
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2012, 01:40 AM
hunter88 hunter88 is offline
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For my enclosed deer stand I use a propane heater. I was given a stove that came from a camper. It has 3 burners and even has an oven. I built a small cabinet on wheels to drop the stove in, and made room for a 20# tank behind.

This winter with temps in the 20s I didn't have a problem with the windows. Actually some mornings when I got to the stand the windows were frosted over. The windows are standard house windows I laid on their side to make sliders. For cleaning you can remove the window, and I do this in the morning and hold the frosted window over the stove to melt the frost.

Nice part of the oven is you can heat up a nice breakfast while sitting in the stand.

Here's a picture of the stove, and yes that is a TV with the football game.

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  #8  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:12 PM
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offgridbob Male offgridbob is offline
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Now that has to be one nice deer stand. Why go to it when you could sleep over night in it. That would be a great new thread, discriptions and pictures of ones deer stands. My stand just has cloth see through screens on the window openings that hang loose. I have a small propane bottle with a little heater attached but when it got real cold it didn't work so good. Since I'm cheap, I started using those little heat packets you can put in your gloves and socks. I found out that as long as my hands and feet were warm, the rest was OK. For 400+ dollars I could buy enough of those packets to last several lifetimes.
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:42 PM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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So just a little feedback regarding installing the heater last weekend. The heater itself is a snap to install, just 4 self tapping screws to the bulkhead. However, I had an issue with the hose. Most places around here sell hoses from Mr Heater. What I needed was a hose with a 3/8 NPT male thread on one side for the 11"WC regulator and a 3/8" flare connector on the other since the heater is "permanently" mounted with rigid tubing in yachts.

I found a hose with what appeared to be the right 3/8 connections on both sides, except come to find on install that the 3/8 to 3/8 hose has the correct 3/8 thread, but not the correct internal feature to match the male flare connection on the heater.

Going back to the store and looking at the hoses in greater detail, I came to find that there appears to be no 3/8 to 3/8 flare hose and the closest was 1/4" NPT to 3/8 flare. So I thought OK, I need a bushing to step up the 1/4" to 3/8" NPT. No problem.... Except, that for some reason, the only 1/4 to 3/8" fittings appears to be really trashy red bronze castings where the thread still shows cast finish after machining and everything is ragged as hell..... Nobody seems to have these bushings made from brass bar stock and I wasn't able to stop by a hydraulic supply house to compare.

So I am in a bit of a quandry. It is a propane connection and it is on the low pressure side of the regulator, but it would be extremely irritating to have a leak which depleted the cylinder during the week when I was not in the blind. Checking for leaks with soapy water in the outdoors could be an issue when the temperature is below freezing ??

Its time to get my lathe rebuilt so that I am not at the mercy of our cheap big box stores for this type of stuff...

I forgot to mention that the vent is 1" diameter. After not wanting to buy a 20ft length of stainless pipe, I finally settled for a 5ft length of 1" copper pipe. Since no-one makes flashing for 1" pipe, I put a 3" pellet vent flashing on the roof, cut through the roof to tightly fit a 3" pellet vent and installed a 1 foot section of 3" pellet vent with a rain cap. The copper pipe terminates at the bottom of the "open" area of the rain cap. The 1" to 3" diameters provide plenty of air gap around the copper pipe and I have yet to see just how hot it gets.

Last edited by Westcliffe01; 01-27-2012 at 10:48 PM.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:57 PM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Here are a few pictures of the blind and the view from it and the area around it:


Panoramic view from the blind to the North East showing the "draw" used by the Coyotes to gain access from the west and east to the sheep, while remaining hidden from all of the farm buildings.

View from the North side of the property to the south west with the blind way up on high ground overlooking the draw (towards the top right of the picture)

Picture through the door of the blind, still showing the old buddy heater and the bench seats (I can sit on either side, rest my bipod on the opposite bench and the barrel is poking out the window).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fahey farm 03.jpg (16.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Fahey farm 13.jpg (8.9 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by Westcliffe01; 01-27-2012 at 11:28 PM.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2012, 01:30 AM
hunter88 hunter88 is offline
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Quote:
That would be a great new thread, discriptions and pictures of ones deer stands.
Don't really want to steal someone else's thread, but thought I'd add a couple pictures of the stand I built this summer. I call it my deer stand with attached garage since I sometimes park my cart or 4 wheeler under the stand.





Westcliffe01, I had a bit of a problem when I was hooking my stove to the 20 pound tank. I went to Menards, like Lowes if you don't have Menards in your area. I found the hose easily enough, but had fitting problems too. We ended up back in the plumbing section to get some brass fittings that would match everything up. Fortunately it wasn't that cold when I was hooking it up, so I could still use some soapy water to check for leaks.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2012, 10:45 PM
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offgridbob Male offgridbob is offline
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Westclif01, in your second photo, thats an interesting camo pattern you have on your blind.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2012, 12:04 AM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Yes, on the day I tried to paint a pattern, it was so cold out that even though I warmed the paint next to the wood stove all night, the moment it was poured in the tray and taken outside it started congealing. I was going to use a brush, but that turned out to be impossible. So I used a roller and just dipped one side of the roller in the paint.

Next year it will get a straw or corn makeover... Now during predator season, the coyotes are naturally at about 250 yards, so they don't even notice and it has meanwhile been on that spot since Dec 1 so the animals are adjusting to its constant presence.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2012, 12:10 AM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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I was out this afternoon. Wind blowing about 40mph with heck of a chill factor. The wind was blowing directly downrange so I think I had a reasonable chance of hitting a yote if they showed but all was quiet.

I did get the new heater connected up and it is a night and day difference to the Buddy heater. No problem with fogged windows at all. There is a small loss in heating efficiency with the flue going straight out but it doesn't take much to heat that space given the 3" of foam in the floor, 2" in the roof and 1.5" in the walls. The weakest link is the glazing. Door was custom made with 1" of polystyrene. It is not perfectly flat, but I will fix that pretty soon with some packing tape on the door and expanding foam into the gaps.

There is a gap at the bottom of the door that makes the floor cold that I need to figure out a fix for. No amount of heating thaws my toes out...
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2012, 01:36 AM
hunter88 hunter88 is offline
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Just curious, but is it possible to get it too air tight and with propane burning inside you can end up with a loss of oxygen?

I know the ventless types say you need outside air, but I wasn't sure if that is the case with vented heaters.
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  #16  
Old 01-29-2012, 03:05 AM
Westcliffe01 Male Westcliffe01 is offline
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Right now there is a 1/2" x 24" gap at the bottom of the door. I also tend to have at least 1 window cracked. I am considering modifying the heater to plumb combustion air in directly from the outside.
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