J.R. Neumiller is a man after my own heart. He is willing to learn about new technology and, more important, willing to try some. He has explored straw bale homes and rejected them because they are hard to sell and some people make jokes about them. This is true of other unusual homes, like geodesic domes, round homes, log end construction, cob, adobe and other worthy methods shunned by banks, government and society in general. If you build such a home you better plan to live there for life.

J.R. chose not to build a log home because, although acceptable by banks and builders, they have a distinctive rustic look not popular with some people including Mrs. J.R.

He next looked into concrete block building and found problems with that but it brought him to the discovery of Insulating Concrete Forms.

I first saw this system used about 18 years ago. A mason friend of mine was building basement walls with ICFs. It is exciting to see. Styrofoam forms are locked together, sort of like Lego blocks. Reinforcing bars are inserted into notches in the foam and concrete is poured into the hollows. There was still the need for footers under the wall, and the inside and outside surfaces need to have some sort of finish applied to them. Parging comes to mind for some reason.

Just lately I saw basement walls being built with ICFs right in our own neighborhood. The Styrofoam forms have become more sophisticated as have concrete mixes that do a better job of filling the hollows in the forms.

J.R. wants to use this method to build his new home. ICFs have good properties that he recognized. Strength, insulation value and sound deadening are obvious. However, there are some other things to consider.

An ICF system is more expensive than block or poured concrete walls. Add to that the need for something to cover and protect the foam and it gets very pricey.

Finding a contractor to build walls up to house heights will be hard and, if you do find someone, he will charge a premium for “experimenting” and probably won’t guarantee his work.

The concrete can’t be poured into forms that tall. You will need a concrete pumper. I once had to hire a pumper. It cost $400…per hour!! Plus concrete.

Then there is the problem of working around the door and window openings. And, again, finishing the interior and exterior surfaces. I believe ICFs have promise and I think some smart people will see the advantages of this method and come up with a way to make it work for house walls one day. J.R. may be one of the pioneers in this field.

That is the bad news. The good news is, there are alternatives. First I think the ICF is by far the best basement wall system, if you want to have a basement. See BHM issue #102, page 26 for some different ideas.

House walls are a different matter. I have been using hardwood shakes on my homes for years. They have qualities you would appreciate. They add mass to the home, deaden outside noise, help the insulation in the walls work more efficiently in winter and summer, need no painting and require very little maintenance. The cost is low. They are a bit “rustic” but you have some very artistic options when putting them on your walls. Have Mrs. J.R. look at the pictures with my blogs and see what she thinks. BHM issue #88, page 8 tells all about it. You may have to search for that issue of the magazine. It is rare.

Given the direction of your research, J.R., there is a product you should check out. Here in New England we have a lot of Post and Beam homes going up. After the frame of one of these homes is put together the whole thing, walls and roof, are covered with panels that I think you will appreciate.

The outside layer is weatherproof waferboard that is ready for shingles or another exterior finish and roofing materials on the roof panels. The inside layer is green drywall, the water repellent kind, ready for paint. Bonded in between is seven inch thick Styrofoam. It probably comes in other thicknesses too. If you were to buy a supply of these panels you could build your whole house with them. They have excellent structural qualities. They come in a number of sizes. I helped put some 8′ by 16′ panels in place on a home near here. Window and door openings are cut with a long bladed Sawzall or a saber saw. Joints are keyed with 2×4s and builders foam.

You will need a Shop Vac to clean up the Styrofoam “snow” when cutting the panels but the window and door cutouts are usable as parts for outbuildings or other projects. No waste. When the cost of these panels is compared to balloon framing and sheathing costs, they are very competitive.

Wiring and installing plumbing in the walls is a challenge. Some ideas for doing those things can be found in BHM issue #106, page 29.

Heating one of these homes is very easy. The 2000 square foot home near here is easily overheated with a very small woodstove. They had to resort to the smallest heat pump available to do their heating and cooling. I suggested they use candles for heat. They did not think I was joking.

Google up some post and beam building companies near you and see who provides their panels and go from there. You may be more computer savvy than I am - many people are - and know more clever ways to find companies who make these panels. Keep us posted about your research, J.R.. I am sure there are many people who want to know more.

Regarding my previous blogs on brick, I learned something new when John Lowther sent a comment about soft bricks . I have come across soft bricks now and then and just assumed they came from a cooler part of the kiln and didn’t harden enough. John gave me a better explanation. Check his comment. Thank you, John.